Gate Circuit

[Devous1]

I'm looking for some input on my options. This is a little outside my wheelhouse it seems like most of the locals really don't want it either. I have a driveway gate and controller that is roughly 1200' from our nearest power source. We installed 2" conduit when we installed our driveway with one pull box. From the power source which is an existing pole barn to the pull box is roughly 670', then another 450' to the gate.

I'm would like to run a 20 amp circuit, but with the price of wire and conduit capacity I'm not sure that is feasible for us at this point. The gate company has informed me the most the gate and controller would pull at one time is around 7 amps. So at minimum I need 10 amps but would like extra capacity for holiday lights or decorations.

This is residential single phase and the barn has a new Leviton Smart Panel, so getting larger cable down on a fuse position would be my next issue.

Your input is appreciated, this has become a safety concern, for some reason people seem intent on coming on this property especially at night even though its clearly posted. I should also note that the gate is in a wooded area so solar isn't really a good option for us.

 

[winnie]

If the gate company can do a battery powered gate, then the circuit only needs to run a trickle charger to keep the battery topped off.

Your electrician can run a 120/240V circuit designed for a couple of amps with small conductors, and you will have plenty of power for a charger and a few lights. You won't be able to run large loads, of course.

Please keep in mind that this is not a DIY forum.

 

[infinity]

For a 10 amp load at 1200' my VD calculator comes up with #3/0 aluminum. You can transition on each end to #12 conductors to make your terminations. Another option is to use a 600 volt transformer at each end and smaller conductors in between.

 

[electrofelon]

If the gate company can do a battery powered gate, then the circuit only needs to run a trickle charger to keep the battery topped off.

All of the gate openers I have seen are this way where the AC power just charges the battery. The draw has got to be really tiny. OP, I will get a measurement on one this evening and let you know what the power draw is. I think you will find it as a lot less than 7 amps.

 

[kwired]

For a 10 amp load at 1200' my VD calculator comes up with #3/0 aluminum. You can transition on each end to #12 conductors to make your terminations. Another option is to use a 600 volt transformer at each end and smaller conductors in between.

Run 240 volts and a transformer to derive 120 at the load end might also be worth consideration. Would need larger conductor than 600 volts, but only one transformer.

I do like the idea of a DC powered gate and only need to run a trickle charger.

Solar panel, storage battery, and possibly inverter if you wanted some (120 volt) lights or other items, but if only wanting lights maybe some that would also run direct from the battery.

 

[hillbilly1]

All of the gate openers I have seen are this way where the AC power just charges the battery. The draw has got to be really tiny. OP, I will get a measurement on one this evening and let you know what the power draw is. I think you will find it as a lot less than 7 amps.

Usually unless it is a commercial rolling gate, which I would think the op’s is not. The commercial rolling gates usually have 120 volt motors.

 

[electrofelon]

So I got some measurements. This is liftmaster rolling gate. It has a battery and works for a period of time if the AC power is removed. So unfortunately, it just happens that the thing was stuck open when I went there. I reset it and fiddled with it for a bit but couldn't get it to work. Guess they'll have to call the gate guy Monday. But anyway I did have my meter set to Max and on the gate circuit well I was fiddling with it. It did go up to 9 amps, a lot higher than I would have thought. The problem seems to be an overload as it was struggling to move and then would shut down. So unfortunately I was not able to get a normal steady state operation measurement. I'll see if I can look at one of the other Gates tonight or tomorrow.

 

[infinity]

Run 240 volts and a transformer to derive 120 at the load end might also be worth consideration. Would need larger conductor than 600 volts, but only one transformer.

There are probably 5 good ways to do this depending on several variables. Since the run is 1200' long I would opt for a method that allowed the smallest condcutors but it is wise to figure out the cost associated with each of the various methods and then choose accordingly.

 

[kwired]

There are probably 5 good ways to do this depending on several variables. Since the run is 1200' long I would opt for a method that allowed the smallest condcutors but it is wise to figure out the cost associated with each of the various methods and then choose accordingly.

If you end up needing 600 volt safety switches or circuit breakers your offset cost over larger ( even larger but aluminum) conductor starts to get eaten up. But yes, take a look at pros, cons, and cost of all those possible methods and take into consideration any future loads that may be desired. How many times does one have power to some remote item like this and owner says, well we already have electricity there.... and the electrician says yes but not really what you need for what you wish to add.

 

[ChesterDawg]

We did one a few years ago in a wooded location that it wasn't feasible to get utility power too. We swapped the batteries with much larger ones and added a solar charger.

Got a tree guy to climb way up a redwood tree to mount a solar panel. We oversized the solar panel, cause it was only getting a few good hours of sun a day.