GEC to water pipe

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jabaums

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I work with some guys from Wisconsin and they are being taught in their apprentice school the you are required to take the gec to the cold water pipe and attach before the main valve and after. None of them can give me the code that requires this. I have always taken the gec to the cold water pipe and attached before the first joint and never been turned down. Is this practice a new code requirment that I am not aware of?
 
You are correct in the way you are doing it. They may be getting taught this under the "thats the way I always did it" line of thinking.
 
The article that requires it is 250.53(D)1

(1) Continuity. Continuity of the grounding path or the bonding connection to interior piping shall not rely on water meters or filtering devices and similar equipment.
 
jabaums said:
I work with some guys from Wisconsin and they are being taught in their apprentice school the you are required to take the gec to the cold water pipe and attach before the main valve and after.
I'm not sure if bonding around the main valve is really required, but having a gec connection or at least a jumper on both sides of a meter is a good idea for safety's sake. Not just the fact that some are connected with dielectric fittings. Most water meters are connected such that they will pass current. If the GEC is connected on the house side only, and the water department removes the meter for whatever reason, the serviceman could get quite a shock if the service neutral connection is less than good. When the occupancy is served with an all metallic municipal water system, loose or even open neutrals can go undiagnosed for years with any real symptoms; until the water meter is removed.
 
jabaums said:
I work with some guys from Wisconsin and they are being taught in their apprentice school the you are required to take the gec to the cold water pipe and attach before the main valve and after. None of them can give me the code that requires this. I have always taken the gec to the cold water pipe and attached before the first joint and never been turned down. Is this practice a new code requirment that I am not aware of?



May be they do their meters different up north because of the cold.
But in the south the water meter is out their near the street. Their is a shut off out there.
But we have a Main valve under the house, too.
I attatch gec right there with in 5 ft. of where the pipe comes out of the ground.
 
mdshunk said:
I'm not sure if bonding around the main valve is really required, but having a gec connection or at least a jumper on both sides of a meter is a good idea for safety's sake. Not just the fact that some are connected with dielectric fittings. Most water meters are connected such that they will pass current. If the GEC is connected on the house side only, and the water department removes the meter for whatever reason, the serviceman could get quite a shock if the service neutral connection is less than good. When the occupancy is served with an all metallic municipal water system, loose or even open neutrals can go undiagnosed for years with any real symptoms; until the water meter is removed.


I just had this discussion with someone, do you feel that the dielectric unions need to be jumpered over? do you think this would defeat the dielectric union to stop the disimular metels galvanizing??
 
brother said:
I just had this discussion with someone, do you feel that the dielectric unions need to be jumpered over?
I really don't see where I have a choice if there's more "system" on the other side of that dielectric fitting. I wired a new home for a man who was high up in a certain governmental agency with three letters. He had installed "PVC breaks" in almost everything metallic in the home at certain intervals; even underground. I summarily bonded around them in the pipework indoors to get an inspection. What was done with them later doesn't concern me much.
 
mdshunk said:
I really don't see where I have a choice if there's more "system" on the other side of that dielectric fitting. I wired a new home for a man who was high up in a certain governmental agency with three letters. He had installed "PVC breaks" in almost everything metallic in the home at certain intervals; even underground. I summarily bonded around them in the pipework indoors to get an inspection. What was done with them later doesn't concern me much.


thats alot bonding, ive heard arguments over this issue on both sides, some say u dont have to jumper it, cause it will defeat the dielectric union others say yes.

even with the metal in the plumbing in the house if you have to do a repair and replace a section with pvc some say dont worry about jumpering it. I suppose its up to the AHJ.
 
This is not a house but in commercial structures. Not the meter, just the main shut off valve that is inside the building.
 
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