Generator panel... so close, no cigar.

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JohnJ0906 said:
"PTO generator"? :confused:
Power Take Off.

Connects to the back of a farm tractor just like a brush hog or manure spreader or any other impliment. Just gotta toy with the throttle a little on certain tractors to get the voltage right. More or less a generator head mounted on a little trailer with the shaft piece to connect to a normal tractor PTO shaft.

W7PTOS.jpg
 
I've never seen the interlock. Does it act like a manuel transfer switch?

I would have the same concerns as most of the others. I would think that a male plug on he outside would have been the way to go and been cleaner.

But this install does beat the guys that just strip off the end of the cord, attach a breaker, turn off the main and back feed the panel
 
mdshunk said:
Power Take Off.

Connects to the back of a farm tractor just like a brush hog or manure spreader or any other impliment. Just gotta toy with the throttle a little on certain tractors to get the voltage right. More or less a generator head mounted on a little trailer with the shaft piece to connect to a normal tractor PTO shaft.

The advantages are 1. They're portable. They pull just like any other trailer. 2. You can get them in just about any size needed for a house or small ag application. and mostly 3. They don't have their own engine. You use the engine of your tractor / 4-wheeler / etc., so it's one less engine to change plugs, oil, etc and maintain.

Many farmers here have pad-mounted PTO gennies to drive their well pumps, outbuildings, etc. They're set in 'doghouses' near where they're needed (usually to protect them from the weather), and you just back up to 'em, hook onto the PTO, and throw the transfer switch.
 
cowboyjwc said:
I've never seen the interlock. Does it act like a manuel transfer switch?
Uh-huh. Square D makes a kit for most of their panels. Other manfuacturer's do as well. Lemme blow up that section of the pic. Check back...
 
480sparky said:
That's just the little walking beam. I forget the part number for the whole kit. I know I'm going to take a beating for this, but I keep one on the truck. I'll just go out and look and take a picture ('cause nobody would believe it). :grin:
 
Maybe if the insulation was stripped back any further off of #1, they could have reached the neutral bar to make it more efficient:grin: :grin: :grin:

I'll bet Marc caught quite a few laughs or nods out of that one:roll:
 
So who makes the appropriate 3R male inlet that an extension cord can be connected to? I've seen them at Home Dopey and the like but my supply house couldn't figure out what to sell me for a generator inlet. I will note that I normally do commercial work and the supply house is more oriented that way, but it's rare they can't find something to meet a request. Can anyone provide a specific product link?

Also, is the cord SOW? Do they sell a reasonable quality cord or do people typically fabricate them?
 
jdsmith said:
So who makes the appropriate 3R male inlet that an extension cord can be connected to? I've seen them at Home Dopey and the like but my supply house couldn't figure out what to sell me for a generator inlet. I will note that I normally do commercial work and the supply house is more oriented that way, but it's rare they can't find something to meet a request. Can anyone provide a specific product link?

Also, is the cord SOW? Do they sell a reasonable quality cord or do people typically fabricate them?


What voltage and amperage would you like?
 
jdsmith said:
So who makes the appropriate 3R male inlet that an extension cord can be connected to? ?
They sell these at Home Depot, but you can just as easily mount a Hubbell flanged inlet in the bottom of a 3R enclosure:

48e12bd4-a0e9-4d79-b0bd-f9abf24f0624_4.jpg


Midwest makes these:

U030N.jpg
 
jdsmith said:
240/120V (4 wire) 20A or 30A

The other question: twist lock or striaght blade?

I always recommend twistlock. You don't have to worry about anything vibrating or getting pulled loose:

120/240V 20a power inlet Pass & Seymour # L1420-FI, 30amp is L1430-FI. Just go the the P&S Site and search for those numbers.
 
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480sparky said:
I always recommend twistlock.
Ditto, but mostly because that's normally what the receptacle on the portable generators is in the first place. Make everything "match".

I know they sell pre-made cordsets for these things, but they're crazy expensive (in my opinion). The factory cords are made nice, though. I generally make my own, mostly due to availability issues with manufactured cordsets.
 
480sparky said:
I always recommend twistlock. You don't have to worry about anything vibrating or getting pulled loose:

120/240V 20a power inlet Pass & Seymour # L1420-FI, 30amp is L1430-FI. Just go the the P&S Site and search for those numbers.

Thanks for the link. It makes sense that it's as simple as installing one of those in a small 3R box.

Thanks Marc, I'll see if anybody in town has the Midwest box that's premade. I'm assuming that if somebody local stocks them it's cheaper than making your own?
 
mdshunk said:
Ditto, but mostly because that's normally what the receptacle on the portable generators is in the first place. Make everything "match".

I know they sell pre-made cordsets for these things, but they're crazy expensive (in my opinion). The factory cords are made nice, though. I generally make my own, mostly due to availability issues with manufactured cordsets.


I generally make my own as well, but only because I keep the parts in stock. 'Specially in the winter months, when I do a lot of back-up generator installs. I keep the SO cord, as well as a variety of male & female ends and flanged inlets on hand for middle-of-the-night service calls.
 
480sparky said:
I always recommend twistlock. You don't have to worry about anything vibrating or getting pulled loose:

120/240V 20a power inlet Pass & Seymour # L1420-FI, 30amp is L1430-FI. Just go the the P&S Site and search for those numbers.


If you use Pass & Seymour, it's not a Twistlock? it is just a locking type. :D:D:D
 
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