GFCI Breaker Always trips

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VD and damaged conductors seem out then - What make/model is the spa? Even tho it's new, you may want to go thru the control panel and make sure all the connections are tight. Any chance the control panel or disconnect are getting moisture/water on them? Also, the last one we did came with about 40 pages of electrical installation instructions, apparently for every model that mfg made - does it require a neutral? Tho remote, perhaps one of the spa components has gone bad already.

The 9 days between failures - did the HO run the spa at any point between replacing the first breaker and having the second, unresetable trip?

eta: found this on a spa site:

"Some hot tubs, such as certain models of Hot Spring and Caldera spas (Watkins Manufacturing), require a special subpanel disconnect containing two separate GFCI breakers: one for the heater, and a second for the pump and other components..."
 
GoldDigger said:
If there is no neutral load and no neutral connection why different current readings on L1 and L2?;
Click to expand...

Good question.
If there is a neutral pulled to the spa disconnect where is it connected on both ends?
If there is a neutral load in the spa that neutral should be connected to the load side of the GFI breaker and the pigtail of the breaker to the spa disconnect neutral bar.
I wonder if a neutral has been pulled to the spa disconnect.
 
There is a neutral to the spa and I believe all of the hot tub components run on 120V EXCEPT the heater which is 240V, thus different current readings. I simply disconnected all the wires to see what could be causing the breaker to trip.

The Hot tub is an Aquaterra and although I don't rule it out as suspect I'm curious what in the circuit could cause a GFCI failure? Its one thing to trip the GFCI due to a wiring or component problem, but to damage the GFCI something odd is happening.
 
JFletcher said:
VD and damaged conductors seem out then - What make/model is the spa? Even tho it's new, you may want to go thru the control panel and make sure all the connections are tight. Any chance the control panel or disconnect are getting moisture/water on them? Also, the last one we did came with about 40 pages of electrical installation instructions, apparently for every model that mfg made - does it require a neutral? Tho remote, perhaps one of the spa components has gone bad already.

The 9 days between failures - did the HO run the spa at any point between replacing the first breaker and having the second, unresetable trip?

eta: found this on a spa site:

"Some hot tubs, such as certain models of Hot Spring and Caldera spas (Watkins Manufacturing), require a special subpanel disconnect containing two separate GFCI breakers: one for the heater, and a second for the pump and other components..."
Click to expand...

The HO has ran the spa though I'm unsure as to how often but I do know it has an anti-freeze mode which will cycle the pumps to circulate water if the outside temp gets too low. Also, the spa panel is outside so water is a factor but as far as I could tell there is no signs of moisture at the breaker only in the base off the disco.
 
mgookin said:
To Convert, move 230V jumper from P14 to P20 (see above). Remove the cord from the terminal block and replace with Red, White, Black and Green #8 wires and connect to 40A Subpanel.

Read page 9.

http://shop.aquaterraspas.com/SupplyImages/WF00006/2014-AquaTerra-Spas-Owners-Manual.pdf

That's their 2014 edition installation manual. Seems they sell mainly through Costco. Can you find out what year & model your customer has?
Click to expand...

Did you do the reconfiguration shown at the bottom of page 9?
Did you move the jumper?
It's funny that they don't tell you what happens if you don't......
 
mgookin said:
To Convert, ...
Click to expand...

I just want to let you guys know I was not intending to be rude or condescending with that Bold larger font post. That's how it copied & pasted from the manual I found on their website.

Happy holidays. I hope the guy gets it fixed for his neighbors.
 
mgookin said:
To Convert, move 230V jumper from P14 to P20 (see above). Remove the cord from the terminal block and replace with Red, White, Black and Green #8 wires and connect to 40A Subpanel.

Read page 9.

http://shop.aquaterraspas.com/SupplyImages/WF00006/2014-AquaTerra-Spas-Owners-Manual.pdf

That's their 2014 edition installation manual. Seems they sell mainly through Costco. Can you find out what year & model your customer has?
Click to expand...

I have to re-check the manual but theirs was slightly different. Instead of moving a jumper their manual called for simply REMOVING a jumper in the control panel (jumper runs from circuit board to L2 terminal).
 
MattS87 said:
I have to re-check the manual but theirs was slightly different. Instead of moving a jumper their manual called for simply REMOVING a jumper in the control panel (jumper runs from circuit board to L2 terminal).
Click to expand...

Once you verify that I'd suggest calling the company.
 
mgookin said:
I just want to let you guys know I was not intending to be rude or condescending with that Bold larger font post. That's how it copied & pasted from the manual I found on their website.

Happy holidays. I hope the guy gets it fixed for his neighbors.
Click to expand...
Just FYI. you can unbold the text and/or change the font size after you have copied it into your Post. :)
 
UPDATE:

The supply house gave me a new breaker since the old one is shot. It is installed and working. L1 reading 18A, L2 reading 20A, and neutral is reading 4.1A without the jets on and 11.4A with them on. All voltage readings are normal (240, 120, 120) on line and load sides of breaker. Reread the manual and there is no moving a jumper simply removing one which was done. The last breaker worked for a period as well so not sure what will happen but I contacted Eaton to see if they have any recommendations as well.
 
MattS87 said:
UPDATE:

The supply house gave me a new breaker since the old one is shot. It is installed and working. L1 reading 18A, L2 reading 20A, and neutral is reading 4.1A without the jets on and 11.4A with them on. All voltage readings are normal (240, 120, 120) on line and load sides of breaker. Reread the manual and there is no moving a jumper simply removing one which was done. The last breaker worked for a period as well so not sure what will happen but I contacted Eaton to see if they have any recommendations as well.
Click to expand...

Glad it worked out. Hope it holds.

Digger: By the time I realized that it was too late to edit. My keyboard operates at warp speed at times. Thanks for the heads-up as always! :thumbsup:
 
MattS87 said:
UPDATE:

The supply house gave me a new breaker since the old one is shot. It is installed and working. L1 reading 18A, L2 reading 20A, and neutral is reading 4.1A without the jets on and 11.4A with them on. All voltage readings are normal (240, 120, 120) on line and load sides of breaker. Reread the manual and there is no moving a jumper simply removing one which was done. The last breaker worked for a period as well so not sure what will happen but I contacted Eaton to see if they have any recommendations as well.
Click to expand...

Good deal! It's always good to have a few other sets of eyes to look something over and make suggestions. Glad it worked out!
I've said before I would be looking right at what was wrong and couldn't see it. Until someone else pointed it out or I walked away and came back later.
 
qcroanoke said:
Good deal! It's always good to have a few other sets of eyes to look something over and make suggestions. Glad it worked out!
I've said before I would be looking right at what was wrong and couldn't see it. Until someone else pointed it out or I walked away and came back later.
Click to expand...

I'm not convinced the problem is solved yet since as I stated in my OP the other 2 breakers worked-for a time- then failed. Eaton was very responsive to my question but the tech I spoke to wants to discuss it with a couple of his senior engineers there.

This wasn't a question of IF the breaker was bad since I knew it was, it is more of WHAT would cause a GFCI breaker to fail in this manner as well as to try and shed light on a seemingly uncommon situation.

Thanks to all who have responded to this post.
 
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