Has anyone experienced gfci receptacles feeling warm to the touch? Recently did a new build using Leviton X7599-R3W (part#) and owner called saying the devices and cover plates felt warm. These are single openings(nothing ganged).Have had concerns in the past with dimmers and warmth but never gcci's. Any help appreciated.
gfci recep warm to touch
- Thread starter nizak
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mopowr steve
Senior Member
- Location
- NW Ohio
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- Electrical contractor
It's normal as the internal circuitry does consume electric and create heat.
Now as a tangent, I was wondering just how much current is used by these devices and after adding a number of them up just how much do they contribute to electrical usage/bill. I don't have a GFCI package in front of me now but does it list this current draw if not, it sure better. I'm sure homeowners would like to know these devices will incur electrical charges. And then what about AFCI's, someone on the code making panel has stock in power companies.
Now as a tangent, I was wondering just how much current is used by these devices and after adding a number of them up just how much do they contribute to electrical usage/bill. I don't have a GFCI package in front of me now but does it list this current draw if not, it sure better. I'm sure homeowners would like to know these devices will incur electrical charges. And then what about AFCI's, someone on the code making panel has stock in power companies.
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Unless there is current flow inside (due to bad unit) I don't see why the interior circuitry draws or uses any power. If for some reason that it does use power, I don't see why it would be that much that it creates heat to extent that is warm to touch.
Probably bad unit.
Probably bad unit.
readydave8
re member
- Location
- Clarkesville, Georgia
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- electrician
Had this problem several times but it was with cheap China GFCI's, some of them even looked burnt, I never did decide whether it was the device itself, the ones where the wires were good 'n tight didn't seem to do it. I suspected the problem to be the screws that tighten down on the wire, easy to strip.
Now I use P&S, no problems since then.
Now I use P&S, no problems since then.
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- Tennessee NEC:2017
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- Semi-Retired Electrician
Maybe normal for you and/or the brand you use, but I have never had one feel warm. Well unless it had a heater or something similar plugged in to it. That small circuitry in them should not be putting off any noticeable heat. Unless the indicator light is on, I wouldn't think they would even be using any current, or at least nothing out of the mA range.
PetrosA
Senior Member
- Location
- Lancaster, Pennsylvania
Maybe there's an issue with the LED driver. Leviton insists on having an indicator light on all the time, so that would be drawing power.
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- Tennessee NEC:2017
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- Semi-Retired Electrician
I usually use P&S and on rare occasions a Cooper. The only time the indicator light is on is either it's tripped or the initial power up.
Curious nerd
Member
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- Washington State, USA
Manufacturers tend not to report that number
Manufacturers tend not to report that number
Leviton and Hubbell don't seem to anyway. I've seen an unsourced unsubstantiated claim that GFCIs draw about 5 ma at rest and AFCIs about 20 ma.
Manufacturers tend not to report that number
Leviton and Hubbell don't seem to anyway. I've seen an unsourced unsubstantiated claim that GFCIs draw about 5 ma at rest and AFCIs about 20 ma.
Curious nerd
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- Location
- Washington State, USA
OK, some better information
OK, some better information
http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=103687&highlight=GFCI+current reports 6.2 ma with the indicator LED off. A less professional thread but which did have one person using reasonable test equipment: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-209624.html 10 ma with an indicator LED on, measured with a Fluke in series.
OK, some better information
http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=103687&highlight=GFCI+current reports 6.2 ma with the indicator LED off. A less professional thread but which did have one person using reasonable test equipment: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-209624.html 10 ma with an indicator LED on, measured with a Fluke in series.
mopowr steve
Senior Member
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- NW Ohio
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- Electrical contractor
You mean you've never pulled a GFCI out of a device box and felt the back of it and did not feel heat? Maybe it is the indicator led that's always lit on Leviton GFCIs that I use.
Or maybe that mA range of current flow trapped in an enclosed space will create noticeable heat gain.
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- Tennessee NEC:2017
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- Semi-Retired Electrician
Never, unless I already saw evidence of other heating and or damage.
IMO the indicator LED probably draws uA and it is not high enough to generate any heat. OP probably has bad GFCI or a cheap device.
On a second note, I can not comprehend why would anyone install a GFCI or other devices that they know is piece of junk???
mopowr steve
Senior Member
- Location
- NW Ohio
- Occupation
- Electrical contractor
Are you a Square D, Hubbell, P&S kinda guy?
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mopowr steve
Senior Member
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- NW Ohio
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- Electrical contractor
I have pulled out various manufacturers GFCI,s that have failed after exposure to water that have noticeable heat damage at the rear of them, melting of the plastic case and burnt discoloration.
Why do some not believe the normal heat that a GFCI produces? No different than the report of many AFCI,s in a panel that creates a noticeable heat gain. Electronics- use power to operate- make heat.
Why do some not believe the normal heat that a GFCI produces? No different than the report of many AFCI,s in a panel that creates a noticeable heat gain. Electronics- use power to operate- make heat.
SQUARE-D and Pass & Seymour for devices
Once in while Leviton (GFCI only) because it is not as deep as the Pass & Seymour
Lutron and Lightolier for dimmers
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kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
Was there a significant load passing through the GFCI (face receptacle or feed through terminals)? The heat may very well been from contact resistance, poor terminations or something like that if there is active load.
I could see the electronics drawing a few mA even when no other load but probably not enough to be noticed temperature wise. If it were enough temp wise, receptacles installed outdoors wouldn't have the condensation issues they seem to frequently have - this heat would actually retard the condensation issue.
I could see the electronics drawing a few mA even when no other load but probably not enough to be noticed temperature wise. If it were enough temp wise, receptacles installed outdoors wouldn't have the condensation issues they seem to frequently have - this heat would actually retard the condensation issue.
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