GFCI receptacle tripped by hotplate

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Frankenstien

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Vancouver, B.C., Canada
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LaunchMaster
Hey all ... I found this old thread here (by the same name as my Subject line) and it almost addressed all of the concerns I have with an older Sears hotplate (120VAC 3-prong plug) tripping a new GFCI receptacle on a boat whose majority of 120VAC outlets are supplied by the 30-amp per leg AC pass-through capability of a MagnaSine Magnum MS2812 inverter / charger while on shore power (FYI - I've pulled the rec. box in question apart and verified the physical integrity and polarity of the wiring) after either of the two hotplate elements (one 500 watts, one 1000 watts) has been allowed to progressively heat up.

I proceeded with tonyi's recommendation in post #11 of a resistance check between N-G ... I did not find infinite resistance between N-G ... the readings I took at different ohm scales with my OTC 300 multimeter differ one from the other (which is puzzling in itself ... at the '400K' scale: 292.8 kΩ, at the '4M' scale: 1.172 M Ω & at the '40M' scale: 9.28 M Ω), however, suffice it to say, I have quantifiable resistance and must have "what amounts to a hardwired bootleg ground internally" ... some internal (to the appliance) joining of N-G.

bennie's post #17 "Do the hot plates trip immediately? or after they are glowing?" caught my attention ... as the latter situation is more the case ... bennie, if you happen to see this thread, why did you ask?

As a temporary work-around with this GFCI rec., I've placed a 3 into 2 prong plug adapter between the appliance plug and the GFCI receptacle, so, said appliance is un-grounded to the boat's AC wiring system ... am I mistaken or could the appliance chassis become 'hot' in the event of a Neutral fault?

Thanks, FFF
 

Little Bill

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Location
Tennessee NEC:2017
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Semi-Retired Electrician
I would suggest you hire a qualified electrician to check your problem.
With that said.......
I am closing this thread, in accordance with the Forum Rules.

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