some answers
some answers
I did a little research online on the subject and here's what I found:
The following excerpt came from the following web-page:
http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_think_gfci/
...
GFCI installation tips
Again, the best GFCI installations are those where you "think like a GFCI" and lay out the installation to minimize "nuisance tripping." At the same time, you should "think like the owner" and consider the GFCI's location, visibility for monthly testing, and resetting convenience should it trip.
Length of circuit. A GFCI is subjected to tests that simulate long branch circuits.
While there are no specific rules concerning the length of the circuit protected or the number of receptacles on the protected circuit, remember that the GFCI will add up all the harmless leakage currents and capacitive leakages. Under extreme circumstances, this could "preload" the GFCI and make it appear overly sensitive or, worst case, result in nuisance tripping. Therefore, you should minimize the length of circuits to the degree possible.
Do not protect some appliances. While the NEC requires a number of receptacles in the kitchen, garage, and basement to be GFCI protected, protection is not required on those serving refrigerators, freezers, or sump pumps. In addition to the obvious reasons of not wanting to interrupt power to these important appliances, some older types of frost-free refrigerators and freezers have relatively high leakage currents when in the defrost cycle. GFCI circuits should be routed so these appliances are not on protected circuits.
The Code requires lighting fixtures and exhaust fans in bathrooms to be grounded, but does not require them to be GFCI protected. Exhaust fans accumulate dust and moisture, possibly increasing leakage levels. Some types of fluorescent fixtures may generate switching transients. This type of equipment should not be wired on the protected portion of the circuit.