Greenlee tugger not working!

[CJW66]

Power to it but won't work this morning. We had it all tarped up. Rained a lot the past few days. Might be damp?Taking the heat gun to it right now. Any ideas? Is there a fuse somewhere on it? Thx

 

[ptonsparky]

Power to it but won't work this morning. We had it all tarped up. Rained a lot the past few days. Might be damp?Taking the heat gun to it right now. Any ideas? Is there a fuse somewhere on it? Thx

Sorry, can't help. We use Toyota, or Nissan tuggers and they always work.

Check the cord ends for broken or loose connections.

 

[CJW66]

Sorry, can't help. We use Toyota, or Nissan tuggers and they always work.

Check the cord ends for broken or loose connections.

Thanks. Had it apart. Power into it. Going to have another look. Was working last week. Never stopped working. Won't start this morning...
Thanks

 

[CJW66]

Thanks. Had it apart. Power into it. Going to have another look. Was working last week. Never stopped working. Won't start this morning...
Thanks

So I pulled the switch apart. Has the 120v and neutral to one side of the switch and 2 wires coming off the other side. I'm getting 50 volts to ground on each wire. Switch must be toast. I'm not much of a motor guy. Can I just bypass this switch? One wire goes to the coil and the other to the commutator. Or is just a simple double throw switch?

 

[kwired]

So I pulled the switch apart. Has the 120v and neutral to one side of the switch and 2 wires coming off the other side. I'm getting 50 volts to ground on each wire. Switch must be toast. I'm not much of a motor guy. Can I just bypass this switch? One wire goes to the coil and the other to the commutator. Or is just a simple double throw switch?

Assuming you have a system with 120 volt ungrounded conductor and a grounded neutral conductor you have a voltage drop somewhere but not a completely open circuit condition either.

Do you have incoming 120 volts? Do you still have 120 volts incoming after adding load? Is your measured 50 volts line side, load side or both sides of the switch?

Does other equipment work if connected to the same outlet?

 

[CJW66]

Assuming you have a system with 120 volt ungrounded conductor and a grounded neutral conductor you have a voltage drop somewhere but not a completely open circuit condition either.

Do you have incoming 120 volts? Do you still have 120 volts incoming after adding load? Is your measured 50 volts line side, load side or both sides of the switch?

Does other equipment work if connected to the same outlet?

Receptacle is fine. I have 120 v on the line side of the switch. 120 v to neutral and 120 v to ground. Cabtire cord connection. On the other side of the switch there are 2 yellows coming off 2 screws, that go to the motor. I have 50 v to ground off either yellow, with the switch off or on. It is a 4 screw switch. Says 240 v or 120v on switch. That's why I'm thinking it's just a double throw switch. Can't get continuity across the switch from either pole. I think the switch is toast, but I'm wondering if I can just bypass it? Or is it a resistive switch? No part number on switch. Can't even google it...
And there is no load. Or I wouldn't have this question.. Lol

 

[mgookin]

What's your model number?
Parts diagrams & manuals here:
http://www.greenlee.com/documentsearch.aspx

 

[kwired]

Receptacle is fine. I have 120 v on the line side of the switch. 120 v to neutral and 120 v to ground. Cabtire cord connection. On the other side of the switch there are 2 yellows coming off 2 screws, that go to the motor. I have 50 v to ground off either yellow, with the switch off or on. It is a 4 screw switch. Says 240 v or 120v on switch. That's why I'm thinking it's just a double throw switch. Can't get continuity across the switch from either pole. I think the switch is toast, but I'm wondering if I can just bypass it? Or is it a resistive switch? No part number on switch. Can't even google it...
And there is no load. Or I wouldn't have this question.. Lol

Probably a bad switch then. I doubt there should be any resistance in the switch, if it were a speed control it would be solid state and somewhat bulky, if it were resistive speed control it would be even more bulky.

 

[CJW66]

What's your model number?
Parts diagrams & manuals here:
http://www.greenlee.com/documentsearch.aspx

It's a greenlee 640. Buddy just talked to his buddy and said he was using a tugger that the switch was bypassed. I guess I put 120v hot to the field and neutral to the armature? Any help would be appreciated..
i found it online. It just says "motor switch". I google the part number and can't find it. Lol. The specs on it...

 

[kwired]

It's a greenlee 640. Buddy just talked to his buddy and said he was using a tugger that the switch was bypassed. I guess I put 120v hot to the field and neutral to the armature? Any help would be appreciated..
i found it online. It just says "motor switch". I google the part number and can't find it. Lol. The specs on it...

You don't need to know the details of how the motor works, just bypass the failed switch and it should run, if the switch is the only failed item.

 

[CJW66]

You don't need to know the details of how the motor works, just bypass the failed switch and it should run, if the switch is the only failed item.

Ok. The 2 yellows coming off the load side of the switch is the confusing part. Assuming it's a single throw double pole switch, the hot should tie to the yellow wire directly across from it and same with the neutral. Gonna try it. Thanks...

 

[kwired]

Ok. The 2 yellows coming off the load side of the switch is the confusing part. Assuming it's a single throw double pole switch, the hot should tie to the yellow wire directly across from it and same with the neutral. Gonna try it. Thanks...

The electrons don't care what color the insulation on the conductor is, we do that for our own identification benefit - especially in the premises wiring, this is in an appliance and those rules don't apply there.

I bet the thing works even if you reverse the hot/neutral input leads, all it cares about is that it gets 120 volts across it.

 

[CJW66]

The electrons don't care what color the insulation on the conductor is, we do that for our own identification benefit - especially in the premises wiring, this is in an appliance and those rules don't apply there.

I bet the thing works even if you reverse the hot/neutral input leads, all it cares about is that it gets 120 volts across it.

Lol. Ok. We got it working anyway. Just bypassed the switch. Thx for your input. Much appreciated

 

[mgookin]

Lol. Ok. We got it working anyway. Just bypassed the switch. Thx for your input. Much appreciated

+1

I'm sure your laborers are VERY happy!

 

[CJW66]

+1

I'm sure your laborers are VERY happy!

lol. For sure! Boss/owner is anyway... He wasn't sure what to do either. Lol

I have hooked up a lot of motors over the years, but we dont really service the motor itself. Blown fuses, overloads, contactors etc.... Don't know much about the motors themselves!
Thanks again guys..