Because I multiplied the per-stick price by 120 instead of 12. :dunce:
If you priced the job based on that and was given the go-ahead you should be a happy camper
Because I multiplied the per-stick price by 120 instead of 12. :dunce:
No, finishing up the proposal tonight, glad I caught it before pricing out of the ballpark.If you priced the job based on that and was given the go-ahead you should be a happy camper![]()
I think I know the answer, but for a 120' run, which would be more economical in PVC, #3-cu in 1", or #1-al in 1-1/4"?
And, should I keep the neutral full-sized, or bother trying to calculate likely neutral loading to reduce it slightly?
I've used that some before - but always on long runs of like 1000 feet or more. The place I can buy it from is about two hour drive away and certainly not worth it for 125 feet or so. What I have used doesn't have the conductors marked with anything that is acceptable indoors either from what I recall, but I have always used it for outdoor runs on the farms and never needed to worry about entering a building with it either.We use the DB aluminum cable in conduit.
In my mind, if the insulation is tough enough to be direct buried, if it's installed in conduit it should last forever.
For me typically the dual rated URD either cost the least or is close enough that since you don't have to measure out individual conductors does save some on labor.So, what's the best (cheapest) form of three conductors of aluminum to pull that will fit into 1.25 PVC?
Dual-rated URD? SEU cable? Individual lengths?
Because I multiplied the per-stick price by 120 instead of 12. :dunce:
I can't seem to find 1-ga, it goes from #2 to 2-0. I need to price it tonight.
No, finishing up the proposal tonight, glad I caught it before pricing out of the ballpark.
What's the most economical form of three aluminum conductors?
1 gauge URD. I found 1 ga. USE single-conductor at Home Depot for .66 / ft. Not stocked, but free-shipped.Are you looking under URD or USE?
Are you asking about the dual rated URD?I can't seem to find 1-ga, it goes from #2 to 2-0. I need to price it tonight.
The customer and I agree which is why it needs to fit in 1.25" PVC.. . . I was assuming it would be pulled in pipe not direct buried.
Not "asking", because it's night, but the URD HD carries is called Dyke and is dual-rated. You sure I can't use #2?Are you asking about the dual rated URD?
Seem to recall that 1/0 triplex is a little much for 1-1/4, especially if there is any schedule 80 in the run. If you must use 1-1/4, might want to go with XHHW, and 1 AWG.The customer and I agree which is why it needs to fit in 1.25" PVC.
I would never use direct burial cable. I have seen it get ding so many times and need to be dug up that, IMO I would just run pvc with thwn-2 or xhhw-2. Whichever is cheaper.
Here's the HD link. I don't see XHHW, does that matter? From the Q&A:
"While this particular item is rated USE-2/RHH-RHW-2, not all USE-2 conductors are additionally rated for RHH/THW-2."
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-By-the-Foot-1-Black-Stranded-AL-USE-2-Cable-27283190/205001910
The main thing I need tonight is a reliable price. 3 x 125 x .66 = $247.50
The building is sheet metal attached to horizontal 2x4s attached to vertical 6x6s. How would you run 3/4" EMT around the inside corners? I don't think FMC would be Kosher. I need to pot receptacles on three walls.
I could bend 90s toward the inside of the space, against the 6x6s, and use pulling elbows, but is there a way to keep the bends between the 6x6s and the skin of the building? I wouldn't be able to put covers on LLs or LRs.
That's where I'd rather bend 90s in each corner, and join the stub-ups with outside-corner pulling elbows, so the conduit better follows the shape of the building. 45s would intrude into the interior space more.Am I understanding that you want to sandwich the EMT between the sheet metal and the 6x6s?
You could double 45 the inside corners, bringing your pipe "inside" the inside corner of the building.