Tom Drake
Member
- Location
- West Palm Beach, FL
Some ovens and cooktops come corded with 30amp plugs. Does the code read to only hard wire these appliances ?
Some ovens and cooktops come corded with 30amp plugs. Does the code read to only hard wire these appliances ?
I have been in the trade now for 33+ years. I have never seen an electric oven or electric cooktop with factory installed cord. They always come with a flex whip.
IMO, if the range comes setup for a cord and plug then you must wire it that way
I agree with all of the above responses. We install a breaker lock for hard wired ovens & cooktops. For corded appliances, remove the plug from the receptacle for disconnect purposes.
This is interesting , all i can think of is 110.25 ? What is your reason for the lock John?
~RJ~
I have been in the trade now for 33+ years. I have never seen an electric oven or electric cooktop with factory installed cord. They always come with a flex whip.
422.31(B)
Indeed so Mr. Iwire.
So given all the appliances needing disconnects , and considering the recent gfci accessibility concerns, a sub panel w/locking door w/in sight would seem prudent.....
~RJ~
Indeed so Mr. Iwire.
So given all the appliances needing disconnects , and considering the recent gfci accessibility concerns, a sub panel w/locking door w/in sight would seem prudent.....
~RJ~
Perhaps the difference between commercial vs homes.
Pretty much every commercial kitchen appliance over 20 amps comes with neither a cord or a whip. The installer chooses one or the other.
Free standing residential ranges come without a cord or whip but it is set up for a cord and plug not direct wire.
The reason they don't install the cords is because some older homes don't have 4 wire receptacles. They used to ask what cord was needed and they would supply it. Now they don't supply them at all.
Going back to what you originally mentioned - if the panel is within sight of the appliance no lock is needed.Indeed so Mr. Iwire.
So given all the appliances needing disconnects , and considering the recent gfci accessibility concerns, a sub panel w/locking door w/in sight would seem prudent.....
~RJ~
Going back to what you originally mentioned - if the panel is within sight of the appliance no lock is needed.
What is required in 110.25 is that when a locking means is needed/required by another code section such as the one in 422.31(B) is that the locking means must remain in place when not being used. Your clamp on type locking devices that attach to the handle are not acceptable in these circumstances. You may still find you need them to comply with a LOTO program for items the NEC doesn't require a locking means for though.
, as you stated>>>the locking means must remain in place when not being used
110.25 Lockable Disconnecting Means. Where a discon-
necting means is required to be lockable open elsewhere in
this Code, it shall be capable of being locked in the open
position. The provisions for locking shall remain in place
with or without the lock installed.
Exception: Cord-and-plug connection locking provisions
shall not be required to remain in place ~vithout the lock
installed.
I don't believe a lockable panel door was ever considered an acceptable locking means - unless maybe it was a single breaker enclosure. You need to be able to lock the individual circuit not just a panel door.I'm confused Mr Kwired...
110.25's recent inclusion means , as you stated>>>
If a locking panel door is no longer acceptable , then the only thing a 'panel w/insight' achieves is the disconnect w/in sight, not the lotto compliance.
Now if they's just make appliances lotto capable , i suppose this wouldn't be an issue
~RJ~