Heat Trace Cable

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kiss

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I need some advice. A customer provided heat trace cable to install in a commercial building, to protect sprinkler pipes from freezing. The cable and the terminating equipment has no instructions.
The cable looks like a # 14-2 romex and it has a braid on the outside of the entire length of the cable. What do I do with the braid? How do I terminate in a metal box. I have a line Voltage T-Stat for this application. Do I just splice or crimp one end of the run and connect the other end to the Hot and Neutral? Any help would be appreciated.
 
Re: Heat Trace Cable

I have installed several setups like that. Some of the better ones can be complicated.
I would find the name and model numbers and get the instructions off the web.
 
Re: Heat Trace Cable

Parallel heat trace cable will need a terminating kit to allow it to be pluged into a receptacle there is a current device in this terminating end that turns off the tape at the right temp. Line voltage thermostast should not be needed. You will need to get the plug kit for the brand of tape you have. It comes with listed connectors for both ends. The shield will connect to the circuit EGC but it will be done with the kit. also, You will need GFP protection for the circuit at least 30 ma An AFCI will do this.

427.22 Equipment Protection.
Ground-fault protection of equipment shall be provided for electric heat tracing and heating panels. This requirement shall not apply in industrial establishments where there is alarm indication of ground faults and
(1) Conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified persons service the installed systems.
(2) Continued circuit operation is necessary for safe operation of equipment or processes.
 
Re: Heat Trace Cable

It is very important - critical - to get the mfgs instructions for the heat cable and follow exactly for terminating. The braid provides a ground fault path and needs to be terminated using the "kit" the mfg recommends.
I use a self regulating heat cable, its always on, but the colder it gets the hotter it gets. this type has to have a end cap that is siliconed on, the heat cable itself is conductive, but has a negative temp co-efficient.
 
Re: Heat Trace Cable

Originally posted by speedypetey:
I would find the name and model numbers and get the instructions off the web.
Click to expand...
That is what I would do also.


Line volt thermostats will be needed if the cable is not the self regulating type Tom mentioned.

Look at the watts per foot listed on the cable and make sure you do not exceed the capacity of the circuit.
 
Re: Heat Trace Cable

You will need GFP protection for the circuit at least 30 ma An AFCI will do this.
Click to expand...
All the advice you've received thus far is very good but I want to emphasize this point. If you don't get the proper GFI circuit breaker (one that trips at 30 ma) you will, in all probability, have problems with this circuit. Standard GFI breakers trip at 5 ma. Make sure your supply house sells you the right breaker and not just a standard one off the shelf. Hurk suggested that an AFCI breaker will do the job. I'm not familiar with these but perhaps he can elaborate more on this.
 
Re: Heat Trace Cable

Goldstar AFCI's incorporate a GFP circuit in them that trips at 30 ma. it has the same current coil as a GFCI but it is set to 30 ma not 5 ma just like you said. And I know at least Cutler Hammer that does have there breaker UL listed as a GFP device for resistance heating applacation's
 
Re: Heat Trace Cable

Thanks for all the advice. Does anyone know if they make a GFI recept. that trips @ 30 MA. Since I have all bolt on C/B on this job, a recpt would be cheaper if available.
 
Re: Heat Trace Cable

I don't know about the 30 ma GFCI recep, you can get a GFP breaker. I use a class A GFCI, but my heat cable runs are short and there is not much leakage current....
 
Re: Heat Trace Cable

Kiss,

I don't believe a GFI receptacle that trips at 30 am exists. I would follow Hurk and/or Tom's suggestion and use the AFCI breaker with GFP. The last time I had a need to purchase a 2-pole, 30 amp GFI breaker that tripped at 30 ma it was a Siemans breaker and I believe the price was around $ 198.00. The electrician before me, who installed the ice melting cable at a strip mall that I now service, purchased standard 5 ma breakers and they failed. However, chances are they may not have failed if this contractor had properly installed the ice melting cable. To save $$$ on the cost of the cable he ended up using numerous splice kits and using every spare piece of cable he could. Now, this normally might not seem so bad except that he laid the splice kits, face up, inside the rain gutters. When I came on the job to troubleshoot they were all filled with water and corroded. I would imagine that would trip a GFI breaker at any level of current !!!

Hurk, thanks for your explaination of ther AFCI - GFP circuitry.

[ January 21, 2004, 05:52 PM: Message edited by: goldstar ]
 
Re: Heat Trace Cable

Kiss
Cutler Hammer does make retro-fit bolt-on AFCI breakers for most brands now, And they are UL listed for use in these panel too. What brand is the panel you have?

Go to this thread and look at the last post there is links to these breakers on Cutler Hammer web site:

Old Work Common Neutral AFCI Problems

[ January 21, 2004, 06:48 PM: Message edited by: hurk27 ]
 
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