Heater Disconnect

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Re: Heater Disconnect

Originally posted by jes25:
I have never seen a 30A 2 pole toggle switch. If there is such a thing I will use it.
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My local orange and blue stores acrry them. They look like spec-grade switches with a green body front. I've used them as water-heater disconnects. They cost about the same as a pull-out disconnect, but look better for indoor apps.
 
Re: Heater Disconnect

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i believe all Heaters have to 125% regardless if you feel it will be on for more than 3 hours.
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You are correct. Take a look at 424.3(B).
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Now hold on, does not this heater we are talking about have a T-stat. if it does I don't think it will be considered continuos load, as it will cycle on and off due to temperature changes.(but then again thats the insanity of the code)that is what I'm reading when I look at 424.1 and 424.3 (B) heaters are considered contiuos loads, Besides, all he has to look at is the nameplate and get the info for what size wire, breaker/fuse and disconnect to install, why wreck your brain so much and does not the info on the nameplate already has all the adjustments for this :eek: .

[ November 01, 2005, 11:08 PM: Message edited by: Jhr ]
 
Re: Heater Disconnect

JHR
The section number in reference has no exceptions or exclusions.
Think of this:
A heater with a Tstat is installed in an area where it could get really cold - like where I live. The Tstat is set at 68 degrees. The outside temp is frigid (15 degrees and windy), and maybe the building does not have great insulation - that heater may never go off....
 
Re: Heater Disconnect

A heater with a Tstat is installed in an area where it could get really cold - like where I live. The Tstat is set at 68 degrees. The outside temp is frigid (15 degrees and windy), and maybe the building does not have great insulation - that heater may never go off....
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Pierre if I were you I would beef up the insulation in my house, or get a wood burning fire place, with energy prices as high as they are and getting higher I'd hate to see your electric bill. :D :D
 
Re: Heater Disconnect

If this is central heating, & in a residence:

Disconnecting means -
Select size based on nameplate rated load, or branch circuit selection current. Whichever is greater, and locked rotor current.

Ampere rateing of switch must be at least 115% of nameplate rated load current, or branch circuit selection current - whichever is greatest.

Must also be horsepower rated (check table 430.148,through 430.151) to compare the rated load current, branch circuit selection current, and horsepower rating.

Must be within sight of the equipment, and readily accessible.
 
Re: Heater Disconnect

Jhr
You should see some of the buildings where I live -which is one of the most affluent areas of the world. Yet there are people here who use these heaters as heat or supplemental heat because they cannot afford better. And yes this winter is going to be EXPENSIVE!!!

EI
Your reference is to central heat, I think this post is for heaters.
 
Re: Heater Disconnect

OOPS! Like I said IF it's central heating, or fixed electrical space heating, with a motor over 1/8 horsepower.

Are we talking a portable plug & cord type? If so, how can that be UL approved, Unless we are talking industrial?

Sorry Guess I got lost there! :confused:
 
Re: Heater Disconnect

Does the disconnect required for a heater have to be rated at 125% also. For example could you put a heater that uses 17 A on a 20A disconnect with #10 cu and a 25A brkr or would the disco have to be 125% which means a 30A disco?
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:confused:
 
Re: Heater Disconnect

Originally posted by electric_instructor:
If not fixed heating, then does it require a disconnect at all?
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Dude read the posts....... It's for CONVENIENCE
 
Re: Heater Disconnect

i think if it was a portable heater and not fixed heat it would come with a disconnect ,the disconnect would be the cord cap that you unplug from the wall.
 
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