Just curious how folks bid a house rewire these days. The house in question has a full basement and attic, with a possible avenue for getting wires to attic failry easy. I doubt a sqft price would work. I thought about flat rate per opening, but does that include materials? 3 bedrooms, dining, living, bath. Average 4 outlets per room, one switched light, etc. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Helping bidding a house rewire, no exposed walls
- Thread starter gk351
- Start date
- Status
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
I would give an estimate but I would not touch this job unless it was T&M. You could guesstimate the amount of wire and materials- put your markup and then guess how long it will take. Even doing that I would only go T&M
I told the home owner you cant really bid a job like this unless I pull some crazy price out of my a$$. They just want a fair guesstimate, but will most likely end up being time and materials. There will be some easy parts, but then some parts that will take hours. Thanks
Strathead
Senior Member
- Location
- Ocala, Florida, USA
- Occupation
- Electrician/Estimator/Project Manager/Superintendent
Given this additional information it really depends on your feeling and the goals. If the job is yours to lose, then spend some time on it and come up with a reasonable cost, figure out how long to fish one receptacle or switch and then multiply add 10% for error and 20% for profit and overhead. If you are just chasing one, multiply the outlets by a factor and be done with it.
I given out many "fair guesstimates" and have come to realize that it doesn't matter what its called, "ballpark", or whatever, its always is a BID to the homeowner.
I repeat ALWAYS a bid! They will fixate on that price and use that to compare you to the other guys "guesstimate". If you do get the job as T&M you better be at or below the "guesstimate" because if you are over, its going to be a fight to get paid, because all they will remember is the number you gave them. They will think you gave them a low number to get the job while never intending to be near that price.
Your way better off figuring out a bid price you can live with!
Rick
Just a note for your reference. I did an 85 year old house last summer. Complete, all electrical replaced. Gas heat, gas water heat, electric range. Single level two bedroom house with an additional bedroom in the attic, the kind where the ceiling is sloped on each side of the room with attic access on both sides. No Garage. Full unfinished basement with utilities downstairs. Two hundred amp service. Fished everything from above and below, plaster and lath walls and ceiling. In SW Washington State.
For 11,500. I was a little low should of been more like 14/15k. To make around $100 per man hour.
Rick
For 11,500. I was a little low should of been more like 14/15k. To make around $100 per man hour.
Rick
After putting some pen to paper, I was thinking somewhere between 10-14K. I can see everyones point of view. People just dont realize what kind of work it takes to do something like this. This has been the first time I couldnt talk someone out of doing it, but most times after you mention $10k+, they change their mind!
I would say the $10,000 is pretty close. The last two or three I've done have been in the $6000 to $11000 range. The low end was a single story with basement and attic. High end was a duplex with basement and attic. All plasterwalls. If you can't repair the plaster walls yourself be sure to tell home owner. I have a few guys that are good at that and I tell the HO.
ptonsparky
Tom
- Occupation
- EC - retired
Don't ignore the problems associated with lead paint if the home is older. That may come back to bite you.
Other than that, at least 3 times what a normal new construction would cost per opening + the service entrance, etc.
Other than that, at least 3 times what a normal new construction would cost per opening + the service entrance, etc.
- Location
- Simi Valley, CA
I have two thoughts I agree with Dennis that it's a T&M job, but you could do as ptonsparky said. I had thought that you could throw out your normal per box price since you don't have to box or supply the boxes, but then again if you are trying not to bust open any walls, you know that one outlet may take 5 minutes to fish and the next one could take an hour depending.
Last one I did like this was also had a large addition going on, so I spoke to the drywaller and the owner and it was cheaper for the owner to have me just cut the drywall at four feet and have it replaced than it was for me to go through the house and bust a bunch of small hole that the drywaller had to patch.
Now of course the difference here is that most houses are slab on grade and this one had some vaulted ceilings so only attic access to about half the house.
Last one I did like this was also had a large addition going on, so I spoke to the drywaller and the owner and it was cheaper for the owner to have me just cut the drywall at four feet and have it replaced than it was for me to go through the house and bust a bunch of small hole that the drywaller had to patch.
Now of course the difference here is that most houses are slab on grade and this one had some vaulted ceilings so only attic access to about half the house.
ceb58
Senior Member
- Location
- Raeford, NC
That's what I do except I 3 X my Sq ft price plus the service. Have done them both T&M and Sq.Ft. and the price comes with in less than $200.00 of each other.
Advise to live by.:thumbsup:
1. Estimate how long how long it will take.
2. Estimate the cost of materials plus markup.
3. Do the math.
I'd avoid a T&M on this kind of job because it's worth more than my normal rate. They are going to want some kind of number so you might as well give them one. Don't be skeered.
Bid it high and you will be happy to do all the nasty stuff. Bid it low and you will be hating your life and will be tempted to do a less than perfect job.
IMO, a couple guys should be able to finish it in a couple days so I would figure a couple guys for 3 or 4 days. A lot depends on access. Full basement and attic is a good start. Empty house would be another plus. Exclude drywall/plaster repair but tell them to expect $500-$1000. When you encounter fire blocking, break out the sawzall/Fein/Rotozip and cut out a healthy portion and screw it back in place when you are done.
The last one I did was 1920's wood lathe and plaster. It was around 20K and well worth it. Very limited access and brick exterior walls so we had to install a few floor receps and run some exterior conduit.
2. Estimate the cost of materials plus markup.
3. Do the math.
I'd avoid a T&M on this kind of job because it's worth more than my normal rate. They are going to want some kind of number so you might as well give them one. Don't be skeered.
Bid it high and you will be happy to do all the nasty stuff. Bid it low and you will be hating your life and will be tempted to do a less than perfect job.
IMO, a couple guys should be able to finish it in a couple days so I would figure a couple guys for 3 or 4 days. A lot depends on access. Full basement and attic is a good start. Empty house would be another plus. Exclude drywall/plaster repair but tell them to expect $500-$1000. When you encounter fire blocking, break out the sawzall/Fein/Rotozip and cut out a healthy portion and screw it back in place when you are done.
The last one I did was 1920's wood lathe and plaster. It was around 20K and well worth it. Very limited access and brick exterior walls so we had to install a few floor receps and run some exterior conduit.
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