Hole hogs

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not getting how you can not use an anti-short bushing with that stuff.
Read 320.40 and compare the wording to 330.40. You can use them for MC but they are not required whereas they are for AC.

Roger
 
But why one and not the other?
Probably has to do with the conductor covering inside the sheathing, AC is paper and MC is polypropylene. IOW's, it has to do with the construction of each cable type, even though they have the same appearance they are different.

Roger
 
I love the smell of fresh sawdust on a Sunday morning and this is the best hole hog I've ever used Had it about 10 years anybody else use it or have one
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Your Swiss Cheese maker hasn't quite matched the holes "Good Neighbor George" drilled through the joists in my basement. Where a few holes are acceptable, George drilled so many so close together they had to add a support 4x4 under one of the joists. In one spot they just connected the holes together as a slot!

I think a single, bigger hole, with more than one NM stuffed through it would be better from a structural point of view.
 
besides trying to get your holes in the middle 1/3, they suggest (glue lam makers, who also insist the holes are in the middle 1/3 lengthwise as well) that you have at least two hole diameters between each hole. just saying. and yes mostly any hole 1/2" or smaller doesnt have any guidelines so fire at will. but you are looking at one cable per hole. that will eliminate problems posted two posts ago.

i use the super hole hawg and it lets me get up higher if i need it. also if i have high ceilings (top and double plates) to drill i will put an extension on it behind my long augers.

i like the design and it's corded i like that if i am doing a house. i hate using cordless tools to do lots of work. i kill them. i have used the Milw. cordless hole hawg tho and it is a thing of beauty. it's made in china now so i will never buy anything by them again. i have ridgid stuff, even tho it is technically not for professional use. but the warranty (lifetime from HD) is unbeatable and i love their batteries. i still have a bad taste in my mouth from Milw's first gen. Lithium batts which were absolute JUNK. I would have gone with the DeWalts because they are u.s. made still. but i have a hard time squeezing the buttons on their batteries to get them off the tools. they may have changed that in recent years, but i will have to wait till my rigids all blow up before i do that. and on that note, i find i like the performance of the motors with brushes in them vs the latest brushless models. any body else feel that way?
 
The Milwaukee extension Dennis shows in post 69 is great for drilling up or down, especially on exterior walls, when you want the tip of the auger aiming back into the house to avoid band joists, etc., as well as horizontal overhead.
 
Looks like that could rip your arms off if that got caught on a nail.
It is just an extension for a drill Milwaukee has made for years. Take right angle drive adapter off and replace with this extension. Low speed positioning of the right angle drive adaptor is what has greater ability to rip your arms right off, I don't think this extension adapter has any gear reduction to it, so will have basically same torque as the actual drill output shaft when used as a straight drill.

Long extension, with the angle to it, would give you more leverage when hanging on to it then when using as a straight drill also.
 
It is just an extension for a drill Milwaukee has made for years. Take right angle drive adapter off and replace with this extension. Low speed positioning of the right angle drive adaptor is what has greater ability to rip your arms right off, I don't think this extension adapter has any gear reduction to it, so will have basically same torque as the actual drill output shaft when used as a straight drill.

Long extension, with the angle to it, would give you more leverage when hanging on to it then when using as a straight drill also.

Silly me; I thought it was an acetylene torch. :D
 
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