Hot Needed

[Alwayslearningelec]

Would you still need a "hot" wire to the 0-10v fixture diming ballast?
Not sure if it needs a switched hot since there's a room controller part of the setup? Thanks.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

0-10v dimming needs continuous 120v, assuming 120v fixture, and 2 low voltage control wires. Southwire makes an mc cable specifically for this.

 

[LarryFine]

According to the diagram, the light itself only requires the controlled line-voltage wire, shown as red.

 

[Alwayslearningelec]

Cam across this which looks like two hots are needed.

 

[LarryFine]

Line and neutral in in the upper left corner. Where is hot #2?

 

[tank728]

Your first post is an lmrc-211. Your second post is a different part, lmrc-213. Lmrc is a relay, fancy switch. 211 is 1 switch leg, 212 is 2 switch legs, 213 is 3 switch legs. As with any switch, you need constant power.

 

[kwired]

You always connect line volts to the driver.

The 0-10 V leads are there for dimming if you desire to dim. Leave them not connected to anything and output is for full brightness. Tie them together and you get output for minimum brightness. Put a controller across them and you get whatever brightness the controller is allowing via a 0-10 V signal.

 

[jaggedben]

Would you still need a "hot" wire to the 0-10v fixture diming ballast?
Not sure if it needs a switched hot since there's a room controller part of the setup? Thanks.

The red wire coming from the controller effectively is your switched hot. It's switched by the controller. The controller is the switch. (Don't add another one.)

 

[Dennis Alwon]

According to the diagram, the light itself only requires the controlled line-voltage wire, shown as red.

Larry, look again there are 2 line voltage wires shown as red and white and the dimming is done with the red and purple

 

[hillbilly1]

Looks like the first pic is a controller that has power in, and sends power and dim signal out, second is a dual driver that is powered and dimmed by the controller. Pretty simple set up.

 

[LarryFine]

Larry, look again there are 2 line voltage wires shown as red and white and the dimming is done with the red and purple

My apologies. Yes, I saw the neutrals joined in the J-box, and expect the load to need it.

I was referring to the ungrounded conductors, as suggested by the thread title.

 

[Alwayslearningelec]

Thank you all!! So now the interesting part. It's a full EMT job. I believe the 0-10v wires are class 2 so I don't think think they can be in the same pipe although I've been told by others in my area that have installed this same scenario they've installed them in the same conduit.

 

[Dsg319]

Thank you all!! So now the interesting part. It's a full EMT job. I believe the 0-10v wires are class 2 so I don't think think they can be in the same pipe although I've been told by others in my area that have installed this same scenario they've installed them in the same conduit.

I don’t remember which manufacture it is but a quick google search and you should be able to find them but I’m almost certain there is one who has class1 dimming so you can share the same raceway.

 

[Alwayslearningelec]

I don’t remember which manufacture it is but a quick google search and you should be able to find them but I’m almost certain there is one who has class1 dimming so you can share the same raceway.

Well class 1 you can’t share with line voltage so I don’t follow what your saying .

 

[jaggedben]

Well class 1 you can’t share with line voltage so I don’t follow what your saying .

I'd say you can in this case because they are 'functionally related.' See 725.48(B)(1).

 

[kwired]

Well class 1 you can’t share with line voltage so I don’t follow what your saying .

If you couldn't share raceway/cable then those MC cables containing dimming conductors wouldn't be usable. Does need to be with conductors it is associated with as mentioned.