Hot Tub Swap

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jeff43222

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I got called out to a job today involving connecting a new hot tub (self-contained) that was recently delivered to replace the old one. The owner told me that the new one is the same model as the old one.

I don't generally do hot tubs, so I'm not terribly familiar with the relevant code sections, but I have been doing a lot of reading. My impression is that a disconnect switch is required to be within sight of the unit, and a general-use receptacle must be installed between 10' and 20' of the inside wall of the tub.

Where things get interesting is that the existing outlet that was feeding the old tub is nothing more than a rectangular device box connected to the end of about 18" RNC sticking up from the concrete pad the spa is sitting on. Inside the box I found two red wires, two blue wires, a white wire, and a black wire. One red and one blue were hot. The only wire whose gauge I could read accurately was the white one, and it was #12. The whole circuit is protected by a 50A two-pole QO at the main panel.

I found the owner's manual online, and it said that the spa had to be fed with four #6 wires, protected with a 50A breaker, but not at the main panel. This part makes sense to me. I have no idea why there were more wires in the outlet box. The RNC sticking up from the ground was not all that large, and I suspect that pulling four new #6 wires through it might be not be too easy, and it might also violate conduit-fill rules.

I have a feeling I'm going to have to tell the homeowner that the existing wiring is not code-compliant and will require a complete rewire job.

I just wanted to double-check with you all that I'm not missing something obvious here.
 
Re: Hot Tub Swap

Not sure what the original spa required for power given there are all to many conductors installed from what you said there are 5 hots and a white but only 2 are energized :confused: What size conduit is in the slab and does it go straight back to the panel ?Could there be a junction where a switch loop is going inside the home (just grabbing at straws)
See what the new spa requires and check to see if conduit there is sufficent.Not enough info for what there is to give an answer.
 
Re: Hot Tub Swap

I suppose a switch loop to the house would make sense, but what struck me was the non-standard use of color conductors, plus the obvious undersizing of the neutral. There was no green or bare wire, either.
 
Re: Hot Tub Swap

Jeff, you described something I've seen before on hottubs I've wired. The 50-amp circuit feeds a small panel that contains a 2-pole 30a GFCI breaker and a 2-pole 20a GFCI breaker. Only one of these circuits uses the neutral.

You should look until you find this box, somewhere on the other end of the conduit run. My guess is under a deck, in a basement or crawl space, etc. It must be somewhere between the panel and the box by the tub; trace it from the 50a breaker.

What is interesting to me is that only one of each hot is testing hot. This could indicate a bad 50a breaker or other issue, and the original hottub was replaced unnecessarily. I often have this happen with customers' clothes dryers.

The dryer will run but not heat, and the appliance people tell them that replacing is cheaper than repairing, so they buy a new dryer. :eek: Suprise! :eek: The new dryer doesn't work. Then they call me, and find out the old dryer was okay.

Additional info: One wire, probably the black, is actually a grounding wire. Make no assumptions! Don't connect anything until you locate the afore-mentioned box and confirm conductors. When checking voltages, check line-to-line as well as line-to-neutral.

[ October 25, 2005, 01:43 PM: Message edited by: LarryFine ]
 
Re: Hot Tub Swap

I did it again!

[ October 25, 2005, 01:43 PM: Message edited by: LarryFine ]
 
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