House wiring with 2011 nec

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J.P. said:
Why not? My total lighting load in the bathroom is 12A. The GfI recep is on a separate circuit.
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A/A Fuel GTX said:
210.23(A)(2) Utilization equipment fastened in place cannot exceed 50% of the branch circuit rating.
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If the required 20A circuit for the receptacle is provided and the lights are on their own circuit, then the lighting load is fine.

210.23(A)(2) applies to a mixed use of fastened in place loads and cord connected loads on a single circuit.
 
J.P. said:
Why not? My total lighting load in the bathroom is 12A. The GfI recep is on a separate circuit.
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Correct, your lighting circuit could even feed other lighting outlets in other rooms, but as soon as you put a receptacle on it you are now in violation of the mentioned 50% of the circuit rule. The dedicated 20 amp circuit for the bathroom must also supply at least one receptacle located in that bathroom, but nothing prohibits more than one circuit to be run.
 
infinity said:
The fan/heat/light would likely require it's own circuit. For everything else, if it needs GFCI protection I would use a receptacle within the bathroom and not a circuit breaker located somewhere else.
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Sierrasparky said:
Ditto
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Why is that?

Not saying you (plural) are wrong, just curious

ice
 
J.P. said:
I have never wired a house. Today I am wiring a house ( boss's buddy ). Usually I do commercial offices or industrial shops.
[...]
As I understand it the whole rest of the house needs to be AFCI? Except perhaps kitchen GFI's and garage GFI"s..... I didn't find what I was looking for there.
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Dropping back to the original post-

Is your friend looking for cheap or good? Not much you do about the former, but otherwise, think about how the place will be used and how things can fail. For instance, splitting ceiling lights and receptacle loads so that tripping one doesn't take out the other*. Or places where an extra circuit would be useful- maybe an extra SABC in the kitchen. Or extra outdoor receptacles. Or even where a subpanel might be useful. The sort of thing that's above code minimum but useful and easy to install when the place is still being built.

*haven't checked where that's required
 
ActionDave said:
So you can reset it and not have to leave the bathroom if it trips. Recepts are also less costly while providing the same level of protection.
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Does this happen often?
Once a month?
Once a year?
Once a decade?

infinity, sierra - did you have any different thoughts?

ice
 
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iceworm said:
Does this happen often?
Once a month?
Once a year?
Once a decade?

infinity, sierra - did you have any different thoughts?

ice
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For fixed wiring like the vent/fan/heater, almost never, and if it does it is because something is wrong. Some people get too worked up over GFCI location and "what if you have to reset it?" I can't recall ever having to reset any of my indoor GFCI's other than sometimes after a lightning storm they seem to trip. Outdoor receptacles seem to have more tripping from moisture problems in equipment.
 
kwired said:
For fixed wiring like the vent/fan/heater, almost never, ....
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The question was about resetting receptacles, so would fixed wiring equipment be in the picture?

kwired said:
I can't recall ever having to reset any of my indoor GFCI's other than sometimes after a lightning storm ....
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I agree. I don't recall ever having to reset a bathroom GFCI.

If the receptacle in the girls bathroom ever tripped, I would pick up the hairdryer, curling iron, hair straightener*, toothbursh, waterpic ..... The appliances would go into quarantine until I could figure out the guilty culprit. If not, they (the appliances, not the girls) would all get a single jack repair and pitched.

I've got GFCI receptacles in the bathrooms, but I don't think I want them reset as a normal way of doing business

ice
*(so how come you need a curling iron and a strightener?? That seems a bit counter productive. "Daaaaddd - you don't understand anything." Yes, sadly, that is often true)
 
iceworm said:
The question was about resetting receptacles, so would fixed wiring equipment be in the picture?
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Discussion I was replying to was about protecting said fixed equipment from a GFCI receptacle in the room vs (any) GFCI located elsewhere, so unless there is a malfunction in the fixed equipment that GFCI is likely not needing reset hardly ever unless it is also protecting receptacles - it is equipment that gets plugged in that cause so called "common tripping", the other items are just protected for worst case scenario and are rarely a problem.
 
jaylectricity said:
Just like this site to misread the OP and go off on a million tangents.

J.P.

#1 It is permissible to use the 20A bathroom circuit to power anything else in the bathroom as long as that bathroom is the only thing on the circuit.
#2 You do not need to put everything on the load side of the GFCI. Don't waste money on a GFCI breaker, either. Most GFCI receptacles have terminals rated for two conductors. You can feed in and out on the line side of the GFCI.
#3 It is advisable to put a separate circuit for the fan/vent/heat. GFCI protection will not be required, nor will the shower recessed light.
#4 2011 NEC means you need AFCI in almost all areas except kitchen and bathroom. Use this to plan your circuits. For instance, don't share a lighting circuit between your kitchen and dining room. Dining and living room can be on the same circuit so that you can AFCI that.
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What is the difference between wiring on the line and load side of a GFCI breaker? My understanding is that if you wire another receptacle (non GFCI) on the load side, if the GFCI trips then that breaker will also lose power. Whereas if you wire to the line side, the adjacent non GFCI breaker will still have power? Is this correct?
 
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