How is this UL rated? Seems impossible.

[rong111]

Hi guys. I have long since retired and sold my business. That is why you never see me I was wondering if you guys would just do me a favor and answer a question? I mean I know my answer but do not get how UL stamped it.

I am looking at an appliance that states in the specs that it draws 14.93 amps. I imagine this is not continuous but don't know. It is a 1 power factor obviously. Anyways, it is UL rated and has a 15 Amp plug. Either it does not actually draw that or i do not know how that got a UL stamp. Of course it is a non continuous load but that is rather high. It is an Infrared Convection oven. Could you guys please give me some insight into this?

For instance, there is an appliance that draws 12.4 Amps Inductive. It is constant. After 15 minutes the 15 amp plug was measured at 87C! This is something I tested myself. So given that, I see no way the above device could have a 15 Amp plug and be legal in the US. Regardless of the ocpd, i seriously question the plug.

Thank you,
Ron G.

 

[JFletcher]

you will find 1875W hairdryers with 5-15 plugs on them. That's 15.625A. assuming no marketing hype on its power rating. I'd imagine the plug and/or cord is rated for 15A at least thru the use of higher temperature insulation, like 105 or 120* C.

 

[rong111]

Consumer Hair dryers tend to be marketing hype. I have reason to believe this oven may actually draw 15 Amps, if not continuously. I suppose there is something I don't know. Like it does not really draw that.

 

[jim dungar]

I suppose there is something I don't know.

You also don't know the test procedure and requirements for UL listing of that particular combination of oven, plug, and receptacle.

Do you assume the UL Listing may not be legitimate? Then you should contact UL.

 

[merc1136]

If you suspect it is not legit then you can go to the UL website and use the database search tool to see if it has an actual file listing. All you need to type is in the manufacturer and model number.

 

[rong111]

That is excellent! I did not know you can search UL online. It is listed. Major Manufacturer. You are correct, I do not know their methodology for testing such product. I will rest assured it is safe. Like I said, I don't know but obviously it is legit to use that plug. Which means it can be plugged into a 15A receptacle. However, even though the manual does not state so I imagine that should be a dedicated branch. Of course, not stating it I do not know that either. I will assume so which is fine.

This is solved!
Thank you guys.

 

[gadfly56]

That is excellent! I did not know you can search UL online. It is listed. Major Manufacturer. You are correct, I do not know their methodology for testing such product. I will rest assured it is safe. Like I said, I don't know but obviously it is legit to use that plug. Which means it can be plugged into a 15A receptacle. However, even though the manual does not state so I imagine that should be a dedicated branch. Of course, not stating it I do not know that either. I will assume so which is fine.

This is solved!
Thank you guys.

A note of caution. Even though there is a listing, it is possible that this is a knock-off/counterfeit product. People do that. If you got it through an outlet you trust that's one thing, but if you were cruising alibaba that's another.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

you will find 1875W hairdryers with 5-15 plugs on them. That's 15.625A. assuming no marketing hype on its power rating. I'd imagine the plug and/or cord is rated for 15A at least thru the use of higher temperature insulation, like 105 or 120* C.

I bet if you look close at the label on the hair dryer you will find that is it 1875 watts @ 125 volts.

 

[rong111]

This is a Convection oven. I know about the hair dryers. I got it at Best buy so it is Legit. I imagine that draw is very momentary. For a non continuous load it would still pass, barely. So I get it now. I doubt that thing draws that much for the duration of it's operation. Space heaters can and very often trip ocpd's. Space heaters are also the culprit of many house firees. I do not use them personally. As for this oven I bet after 30 seconds it is down to maybe 9-10 Amps. Heck, I will just put the clamp meter on it. I am just curious now even though I already know it is legit.

 

[hbiss]

Take a look here http://www.webstaurantstore.com/14389/electric-countertop-fryers.html

That's pretty common, I believe it is done to allow use on a 15A circuit without re-wiring (as long as there is nothing else on it. ) Certainly will show up any bad connections or back stabs.

You can also look at their countertop convection ovens, same thing.

I would provide a dedicated 20A circuit with a 20A receptacle. No reason a 15A plug can't be made like a 20 for a heavy duty cordset (really, it's only one prong turned sideways), hopefully that's what it is. So it shouldn't burn up. I suppose you could always cut it off and install a real plug.

-Hal

 

[mbrooke]

I doubt its continuous, hence why its acceptable. A 15 amp appliance can safely be fitted with a 15 amp cord cap. I have a 1800 watt commercial toaster oven and an 1800 watt panini press. Both have a NEMA 5-15 plug.


As for the heat you found, chances are one or both the cord cap and outlet are worn. I've seen loose holding outlets melt under a heavy load.

 

[hbiss]

I doubt its continuous, hence why its acceptable. A 15 amp appliance can safely be fitted with a 15 amp cord cap. I have a 1800 watt commercial toaster oven and an 1800 watt panini press. Both have a NEMA 5-15 plug.

The heating elements cycle on and off.

As for the heat you found, chances are one or both the cord cap and outlet are worn. I've seen loose holding outlets melt under a heavy load.

Like I said, it's an excellent way to find any defects. Worn receptacles are at the top of the list which will probably melt the PVC plug before they give up. It's certainly no surprise to find worn receptacles along kitchen counters.

-Hal

 

[rong111]

In what way is a fire a great way of finding any problems lol. I think on a dedicated 15Amp it is fine. 20 would be better of course. The issue I take with the manual is it does not state that it must be a dedicated branch. Put a few more amps on there and even at inrush it will trip or worse.

I had my home built. At first, unknown to me they backstabbed everything. I sued the builder and lost. Since backstab is allowable but I was furious. I had to redo every one. To me, even that is allowed it is a mark of shoddy workmanship and a rush job. I know this is off topic for my post but as i said a fire is not a nice way to find out.

A funny story, this guy was so lazy he worked for 18 years put runners on a 3 way on the line. I just do not like to be the person that gets those surprises! That goes all the way up to arc flash from no lock out. Not cool at all in my book to cut corners.

Anyways it is no problem. I already ran a 20 amp branch to it. The cord is 14AWG for whatever that is worth. Obviously it is, having a 15Amp plug. As I thought and others pondered i put the clamp on it and it settles down to between 5 and 7 Amps. The 14.93 is for a second. That is fine for non continuous usage. I guess I just wish manuals were more concise. Like state 14.93A Max. Hence the Max. Apparently the NEC and appliance manufactures are two different entities Actual Sparkies tend to speak of things differently.

 

[JFletcher]

Take a look here http://www.webstaurantstore.com/14389/electric-countertop-fryers.html

That first fryer listed is 3500W, 120V. 29A draw. The specs nor comments indicate if it is hardwired or needs/uses a 30A 120V plug, which is not standard fare in any kitchen I've seen. Possible that it has two cords intended for 2 separate circuits?

eta: saw the spec sheet, 2 5-15p cords is exactly what it has:

"You don't even have to use both sides, since each fryer has
its own cord."

 

[kwired]

This is a Convection oven. I know about the hair dryers. I got it at Best buy so it is Legit. I imagine that draw is very momentary. For a non continuous load it would still pass, barely. So I get it now. I doubt that thing draws that much for the duration of it's operation. Space heaters can and very often trip ocpd's. Space heaters are also the culprit of many house firees. I do not use them personally. As for this oven I bet after 30 seconds it is down to maybe 9-10 Amps. Heck, I will just put the clamp meter on it. I am just curious now even though I already know it is legit.

The oven is a small space and once it reaches the "setpoint" it only cycles as needed to maintain temperature. A space heater may be heating a large enough space that it never reaches the setpoint, and would run continuously for hours, days, even months.

What concerns me more then 15 amp load on a 15 amp receptacle is a continuous load, even as low as 5-7 amps on a cheap receptacle with weak contact pressure, that is your biggest fire starter threat.

 

[gadfly56]

The oven is a small space and once it reaches the "setpoint" it only cycles as needed to maintain temperature. A space heater may be heating a large enough space that it never reaches the setpoint, and would run continuously for hours, days, even months.

What concerns me more then 15 amp load on a 15 amp receptacle is a continuous load, even as low as 5-7 amps on a cheap receptacle with weak contact pressure, that is your biggest fire starter threat.

Gee, I don't remember having you over to my house! :roll: I've been slowly replacing all the receptacles with commercial grade devices. All, and I mean all, the original receptacles are so loose that you can make the plug fall out by stomping on the floor next to the receptacle.

 

[kwired]

Gee, I don't remember having you over to my house! :roll: I've been slowly replacing all the receptacles with commercial grade devices. All, and I mean all, the original receptacles are so loose that you can make the plug fall out by stomping on the floor next to the receptacle.

Many of them go for a long time with no major issues. It is when you plug in a space heater, window AC, or other item that runs for long periods of time, even if it only pulls 5-8 amps, that you start to get heating issues from poor contact.

12 amp vacuum cleaner or kitchen appliance that only runs for a few minutes or cycles on/off as temperature demands may go for a long time without much if any heat damage on the cord/receptacle.

 

[growler]

What concerns me more then 15 amp load on a 15 amp receptacle is a continuous load, even as low as 5-7 amps on a cheap receptacle with weak contact pressure, that is your biggest fire starter threat.

Gee, I don't remember having you over to my house! :roll: I've been slowly replacing all the receptacles with commercial grade devices. All, and I mean all, the original receptacles are so loose that you can make the plug fall out by stomping on the floor next to the receptacle.

The only organization that I know of that test and will require the replacement of these old worn out receptacles is "section eight houseing". I don't think they even test them for an FHA loan. I have seen a few written up on home inspections but not many.

 

[gadfly56]

The only organization that I know of that test and will require the replacement of these old worn out receptacles is "section eight houseing". I don't think they even test them for an FHA loan. I have seen a few written up on home inspections but not many.

I'm sure there's a pull out requirement for receptacles in general, but if IIRC, hospital receptacles actually get tested periodically.

 

[retirede]

I'm sure there's a pull out requirement for receptacles in general, but if IIRC, hospital receptacles actually get tested periodically.

I worked in a hospital for a couple of years. We did test receptacles for pullout tension, but only in certain areas. I don't recall exactly, but operating rooms were definitely one area we tested.