How much would you add $

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westelectric said:
is that your standard right angle drill with an add on piece or is that an entirely different tool?
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The former. It clamps onto the housing and angled head just like the short coupling tube. Inside the long tube is basically a 3-foot version of the double-hex piece that couples the output shaft of the drill motor to the 90-degree head.

It uses the original chuck (which is a pain to remove - you have to chuck a large allen wrench in it and hit it with a hammer - after removing the left-hand-threaded hex-head screw inside it - that's one you only overlook once.)

I believe I can drill straight holes through joists 11 feet above the floor - without a ladder. I'm 5'15" and I can touch an 8' ceiling, and the drill can drill horizontally 3' above my hands. Remember, I'm a gold-medal-winning driller.

It's strength is in drilling up and down while standing, as well as horizontally overhead. I've even used it for drilling through studs for receptacle runs so I didn't have to disassemble it. You just have to get used to standing back a bit.

Added: One other easily-overlooked use for it is to drill down through bottom plates in exterior walls. With a short auger, you can angle it back into the crawl space, avoiding the band joists and minimizing the need for nail-plates.
 
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acrwc10 said:
I am bidding a residential job that has 11' ceilings on the main floor and 9' ceilings in the basement and top floor. I normally bid unit pricing on a job, 1 outlet = $xx.xx, I was wondering what I could reasonable use as a multiplier for such high ceilings ?
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if you get tired of the ladder and rolling the scaffold, grind the end of a 4 ft piece of 3/4 " emt so it has a point on 2 sides. Have helper jam this under the plate where you want to drill (the points will hold in place) slide in the long flex bit ( 54") and drill away.
 
more time

more time

A/A Fuel GTX said:
I can't see how the high ceilings would add very much to the bid. Tack on three hundred bucks to cover the extra material and the extra steps on the ladder........Now strap on the belt and get a roughin'
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Higher working heights mean more time consumed! You have to charge more!:)
 
I could see it if we were talking 14' ceilings but 11'? Come on....a 10' ladder is not hard to work with. In this economy, I'd be happy to get the job and not make the ceiling height a big issue.
 
Standing two rungs down from the top of a 6' ladder places the head (of a 6-footer) one foot below an 11' ceiling. That's plenty close.
 
Cow said:
You'd really use a 10' ladder with 11' ceilings?
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Sure, why not? OK.....I'll compromise, for a 6' guy, an 8' ladder would be adequate for working with 11' ceilings. I just dont like getting too close to the top rungs.
 
LarryFine said:
Not with one of these dudes:

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You are a big man Larry-- most of us can't drill a 10' ceiling easily with that. I know I can't drill an 11' celing with that,,, Great tool but not long enough in this case.
 
Your never gonna wire a house with 11 foot ceilings as fast as 8 foot.How much longer depends on the guy.Times are slow so add what you feel you must.Bottom line is to make money.
 
Jim W in Tampa said:
Your never gonna wire a house with 11 foot ceilings as fast as 8 foot.How much longer depends on the guy.Times are slow so add what you feel you must.Bottom line is to make money.
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Exactly, The fact that you need a ladder in an area that you would other wise not is a big addition of time. Time is money.On an 8' ceiling I would be using a 3' ladder to wire recess lights, and no ladder to drill.
 
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