How to fix a broken ufer?

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We get that every once in a while. The Framer doesn't want the Ufer in his way and he'll cut it down to 6" or so. We usually use a c-tap or butt splice (non-reversible) and the Inspectors are good with that.
 
It was inspected before it was poured by the city inspector. During the pour the vertical portion must have dropped leaving only 2" above the concrete. An alert concrete contractor would have caught this an pulled it up before it dired. Let me see if I can scan a sketch so everyone will get a better picture of what I am talking about.
 
Yes that happen here as well. Same situation. But this concrete guy welded another piece on and attempted to hide the weld by putting an additional block on the bottom plate. I just want to be sure that the weld is sufficient.
 
RJRUBLE said:
It was inspected before it was poured by the city inspector. During the pour the vertical portion must have dropped leaving only 2" above the concrete. An alert concrete contractor would have caught this an pulled it up before it dired. Let me see if I can scan a sketch so everyone will get a better picture of what I am talking about.
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YOu've done a good job of describing it, and I think I got it without the picture. I never assumed the weld was under concrete. I stand my my statement that it would be legal to weld, even if not being poured over again, leaving the weld exposed.

Don't take the phone and tv here. You only need one wire on this rod.
 
A while back - we had a discussion about where exactly a CEE becomes a GEC. I believe it was Iwire's thoughts about rebar being stubbed up becoming a GEC. Not that I in anyway agree with that... :roll:

But no other steel connections are allowed to be "welded" - like for mounting boxes - etc. Conductors and electrodes are another story... While I can do a nice solid bead with MIG welding - poor welding technique is often hidden by the weld itself. Pouristy, voids, cavities, etc. High heat is just rapid oxidation - without good shielding it seriously rusts in seconds as it cools. I think I would stay far from that....

Now a bit about this "welding".... "Exothermic welding" is approved and an accepted method - but dragging out a stick welder, or some plumber and some funny brazing is not....

So now why not just use a lay-in lug type clamp then take the wire right through to the gas. And use a split-bolt for the phone along the way...
 
I was speaking with a gentleman who is on CMP 5. He says that in the 2011 code the wording has changed and the rebar that is stubbed up out of the footer will be considered the Grounding Electrode CONDUCTOR. The grounding Electrode is the 20' in the footer.

This will create another issue, as you will no longer be allowed to use a clamp to attach to this rebar stub up anymore. The stub up being considered the grounding electrode conductor means that you will need to have an irrevsible connection when attaching to it.
 
luckyshadow said:
I was speaking with a gentleman who is on CMP 5. He says that in the 2011 code the wording has changed and the rebar that is stubbed up out of the footer will be considered the Grounding Electrode CONDUCTOR. The grounding Electrode is the 20' in the footer.

This will create another issue, as you will no longer be allowed to use a clamp to attach to this rebar stub up anymore. The stub up being considered the grounding electrode conductor means that you will need to have an irrevsible connection when attaching to it.
Click to expand...

I took a quick look at the 2011 draft and could not find that code change.
 
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