How to secure service mast on new construction?

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Why are you telling him to go thru the wall. Standoff straps with #10 screws work just fine in brick or wood siding. The meter base and , as mentioned earlier, overhang will keep it from moving forward or even side to side.
He wanted a strong option. They can do vinyl j channel either side if he has a 4 inch piece of azek or something like that behind it and it'll work.
 
Recently did a mast with almost 200 feet of 4/0 triplex (cerapus). Horizontal tension was designed to be 400 pounds, with worst case of 1200 ice And wind loading. Do the math treating the mast as a first class lever.
 
The guy said vinyl siding is on the house. Just screwing straps or strut onto the wall is gonna smash the siding and make it look like crap.

@letgomywago said check utility specs, and that's accurate.

One POCO around here wants 2x4 blocks between the studs. Others may not care

I like to use either:
1) an offset nipple to get the mast tight to the siding, then use 2-hole straps.

or

2) minerallac straps so that I don't need the offset nipple.

In either case, if it's vinyl siding, I like to drill 7/8" holes for the screws, and use 1/2" PVC conduit sleeves, long enough to space from the sheath out to the face of the siding. And toggle bolts through the sheath (presuming no wood blocking)
Only time we have to use blocking is if it isn't going through the roof. Then we use an eyebolt and blocking if there isn't already some "meat" to screw into. Nuts and washers on the eyebolt on each side of the wall.
I use cut pieces of PVC too behind straps if needed.
 
This information might be helpful.
 

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Some of our linemen get pleasure in "tension testing" the drops and I have seen decking & roof damage when they get overzealous.
If I couldn't get lag screws in the top plate I would normally use a piece of shallow strut fastened to the studs.
 
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