how to 'temporary' a hot tub safely

[Todd0x1]

I would do it with a cord and plug, that way you're not leaving the guy a hardwired cord into a disco with bare ends. I would think your liability would stop at the receptacle, and if he kills himself with something he plugs in thats his problem.

Pin and sleeve is nice, but $$$. 14-60 is expensive too. If just for testing and not running long periods of time I would probably just use a 14-50 if the hot tub is good on a 50a breaker. If I wanted to make it good and there was a budget, I would use pin and sleeve (it would be the orange ones for 125/250v 3p4w) and on the male plug I would use loose 4ga type SC bundled with big adhesive lined heat shrink where they go into the connector's clamp, and install ferrules on the bare wire ends. Even slicker would be a pin and sleeve with the integral disconnect switch but those are a few hundred bucks.

 

[Frank DuVal]

I like the Meltric line better than any of the others. Still $$$. Like the poly series DS 60, p/n 33-68076 and 33--64076. They can be the disconnect, but, still about 1K at Galco. Probably cheaper at the local supply house if they deal with them. Blade style plugs much cheaper.

 

[zbang]

What happens when he forgets to lock the disconnect and his kid closes it?

Same thing that happens when the kid falls off the kitchen counter, trips over the garden hose, etc.

 

[petersonra]

Same thing that happens when the kid falls off the kitchen counter, trips over the garden hose, etc.

There is some difference between those kinds of situations and leaving a cord where it could be easily energized.

 

[zbang]

Of course there is, both in the actual situation and in the probability of it happening (I'd expect that child climbing on the kitchen counter and falling is more likely that being able to turn on a disconnect, especially if that disconnect is 5' off the ground and you have to push up).

Examine the actual risk and take reasonable precautions. One precaution is locking the disco, another is always capping the hot leads, another is locking the shop. If the shop owner doesn't have children, maybe it's irrelevant.

 

[Little Bill]

There is some difference between those kinds of situations and leaving a cord where it could be easily energized.

What happens if there is a cord and plug, there are still bare ends that connect to the tub? That's why I said to just use a disconnect and cord with the ends capped. If he has a plug connected to his pigtail and the pigtail has bare ends, what if his kid closes the disconnect and grabs the bare wires? The same hazard could apply to both a cord/plug as just a cord to a disconnect. So no use in spending money on something that is not any safer. I did mention the wires should be capped. We can't guard against every possible hazard that someone could create!

 

[Todd0x1]

What happens if there is a cord and plug, there are still bare ends that connect to the tub? That's why I said to just use a disconnect and cord with the ends capped. If he has a plug connected to his pigtail and the pigtail has bare ends, what if his kid closes the disconnect and grabs the bare wires? The same hazard could apply to both a cord/plug as just a cord to a disconnect. So no use in spending money on something that is not any safer. I did mention the wires should be capped. We can't guard against every possible hazard that someone could create!

If you hardwire a cord into the disco and leave a bare end, that is part of the building wiring and illegal. If its a cord that plugs in, the building wiring stops at the receptacle. Also there's 'left it plugged in' vs 'forgot to loto the switch'

 

[winnie]

I'm of the opinion that a cord and plug is a good solution.

It creates a simple process for the guy testing the tubs: with the cord unplugged attach the pigtails to the tub. Then plug it in for testing.

Jon

 

[LarryFine]

In my opinion, what is needed is a disconnect switch that automatically locks when turned off, and must be unlocked to turn on again. The repairman isn't going to forget to turn it off when disconnecting (not more than once anyway ).

 

[Todd0x1]

In my opinion, what is needed is a disconnect switch that automatically locks when turned off, and must be unlocked to turn on again. The repairman isn't going to forget to turn it off when disconnecting (not more than once anyway ).

Good idea. We've done such setups for shop spaces with an electrically held contactor, momentary keyswitch to turn on, E stop to turn off. Could also use a key operated Estop. Added benefit with such an arrangement is you get auto shut off and no automatic restart when there's a power outage.