How would you cut formica?

[K8MHZ]

Best thing to do imo is practice cutting different scraps before you go doing it in a customer's home.

That's better than practicing on the customer's wall, I will have to say.

But it's not the BEST thing to do, which is to have someone else, one that claims they are a carpenter, do it.

If that person does a good job, and has other positive attributes, I would get their phone number and keep it for further reference.

 

[kenman215]

+1 for the oscillating tool. Not sure how you're going to change the mudring though. I think I would cut out an old work two gang, then try to remove the 4 square. Best of luck.

 

[Sierrasparky]

+1 for the oscillating tool. Not sure how you're going to change the mudring though. I think I would cut out an old work two gang, then try to remove the 4 square. Best of luck.

oscillating tool is the way to go. mudring can be changed with patience. Just make sure the screws are accessible. Screw starter and magnetic tip are useful.

 

[ActionDave]

+1 for the oscillating tool.

And another +1 for the multi tool if you have to do it yourself. If there is a carpenter around let him do it though. They are easier to bribe than ceiling grid guys.

Not sure how you're going to change the mudring though. I think I would cut out an old work two gang, then try to remove the 4 square. Best of luck.

No worries about the mud ring. Outside dimensions of a two gang mud ring is the same size as a 4 sq/1900 box. As long as the cut is nice the trim will cover no prob.

 

[JoeyD74]

I would use my toto zip and cut it out, to me this is part of our trade. How would you cut an old work box into a tile back splash or over a bathroom vanity that's all tile? Are you going to tell the customer to get a tile guy or carpenter?
I do installs like this where the customers regular electrician tells them it can't be done or they need to hire a carpenter or other trade to get it done. Most customers just want it done and if they are willing to pay we do it.

 

[Smart $]

I would use my toto zip and cut it out, to me this is part of our trade. How would you cut an old work box into a tile back splash or over a bathroom vanity that's all tile? Are you going to tell the customer to get a tile guy or carpenter?
I do installs like this where the customers regular electrician tells them it can't be done or they need to hire a carpenter or other trade to get it done. Most customers just want it done and if they are willing to pay we do it.

Standard 2-gang wall plate is ~4.5" sq.

A mud ring is 4.125" sq.

If you use a rotozip with a 5/32" tracing bit, you are at ~4.438" sq. ...on a good day.

Recommend having an oversized plate (~5.3" sq) on hand. :angel:

 

[Strathead]

Just so happens, my Dad worked with Formica as a profession. A route was the tool he used to do this type of work. So a Dremel with the right style of blade should be the perfect tool for this. You want a blade style bit though and use high speed. A carpenter is probably no more likely to get it right than you are. A cabinet maker, millworker would be a likely "expert".

 

[Lectricbota]

Today, I would use the oscillating tool.

10 years ago, probably jig saw with blade that has teeth oriented to cut on down stroke (most typical jigsaw blades cut on up stroke). I have never found a reciprocating saw blade with reverse cut teeth or may have used that. By using reverse stroke cutting blades you avoid pulling the laminate away from the surface it is mounted to which sometimes will break off a large piece and then you have to find a way to cover that mistake. On the flip side the saw will have a tendency to jump more then when using an up stroke cutting blade, so you still need to proceed slow and steady.

I use a jigsaw with a reverse cut finishing blade all the time. I have an oscillating tool but prefer the cordless jigsaw as I can have it finished with that before I can find a receptacle to plug in my oscillating tool.

 

[Smart $]

I use a jigsaw with a reverse cut finishing blade all the time. I have an oscillating tool but prefer the cordless jigsaw as I can have it finished with that before I can find a receptacle to plug in my oscillating tool.

One of the downsides of using a jigsaw is clearance to cut up, down, left, or right as desired... such as an outlet just above kitchen countertop backsplash.

 

[Lectricbota]

One of the downsides of using a jigsaw is clearance to cut up, down, left, or right as desired... such as an outlet just above kitchen countertop backsplash.

I have the m12 milwaukee version. Just remove the base and cut it freehand and you need almost no clearance at all. If I remove the base I make sure I have a new blade and set the oscillating action to zero.

 

[Sierrasparky]

One of the downsides of using a jigsaw is clearance to cut up, down, left, or right as desired... such as an outlet just above kitchen countertop backsplash.

oscillating tool with laminate blade to cut the formica. Then regular wood blade for the rest.
Personally gotten away with a dull blade when I could not find the stack of new one's.

 

[Smart $]

oscillating tool with laminate blade to cut the formica. Then regular wood blade for the rest.
Personally gotten away with a dull blade when I could not find the stack of new one's.

I recommended an oscillating tool earlier...
http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=174026&p=1702629#post1702629
...though I didn't know there was a laminate blade option and recommended using a metal blade. I was trying to point this way in my comment on the downside of a jig saw. An advantage of using an oscillating tool is the ease of plunge cutting and no shoe to contend with.

 

[JoeyD74]

Standard 2-gang wall plate is ~4.5" sq.

A mud ring is 4.125" sq.

If you use a rotozip with a 5/32" tracing bit, you are at ~4.438" sq. ...on a good day.

Recommend having an oversized plate (~5.3" sq) on hand. :angel:

Every plaster ring I have used is smaller than the box on the ring and same size as the box where it touches. Your only cutting the hole big enough to get the ring out so a two gang plate will cover it no problem, no over sized home owner plate required. I'm like a surgeon with the rotozip. :thumbsup:

 

[Smart $]

Every plaster ring I have used is smaller than the box on the ring and same size as the box where it touches. Your only cutting the hole big enough to get the ring out so a two gang plate will cover it no problem, no over sized home owner plate required. I'm like a surgeon with the rotozip. :thumbsup:

Actual size of mudring I checked (where it touches the box) is ~4.125" sq.

If you are removing a mudring from the front, the hole has to be at least as big as the mudring. That's just pure physics. :happyyes:

Yes, it can be done. Good luck with getting it that precise. Not everyone is as skilled as a surgeon. I'm just saying to have an oversized plate on hand... just in case.

 

[GerryB]

What I will be doing if we don't get a carpenter is opening the wall behind the box to remove it. The previous one was 4 sq nail on, side bracket, pretty sure this is the same. Then put 2 gangable old work one with a side bracket. Easier then a 2 gang ring. I need the metal because it is all bx cable.
Then I can put masking tape, outline it from the front , and use the dremmel (oscillating tool) with the right blade to cut it, which was my original question. Shouldn't be to bad since I can start the cut from the existing opening.
Actually, opening the plaster board wall behind the box will probably take longer then cutting the formica