Re: I AM the AHJ
without disputing code, most sheetrock screws break when over torqued. As an example: take a 6" strip of 5/8"ths nom ply and use two 1&7/8ths screws to a stud, fine or fast thread. Using just two studs, all the big boys should be able to just pop it off the wall. I've pulled tons of rock off and the screws never let loose.
Most cabinets that people stock with heavy canned goods are just hung with a few sheetrock screws, albeit somewhat longer.
And there is a code for sheetrock screw nailing, screwing and it can be found in the applicable building code for your area.
The list could go on. I prefer the Grabber pan heads for mounting stuff. I think the big problem is using the mounting screw to be the grounding attachment, which is against the NEC.
I've done a lot of old work in Victorians with wall paper, wood lathe, and a variety of long sheetrock screws were an invaluable aid to good looking installations. The clips sometimes just weren't adequate.
paul
without disputing code, most sheetrock screws break when over torqued. As an example: take a 6" strip of 5/8"ths nom ply and use two 1&7/8ths screws to a stud, fine or fast thread. Using just two studs, all the big boys should be able to just pop it off the wall. I've pulled tons of rock off and the screws never let loose.
Most cabinets that people stock with heavy canned goods are just hung with a few sheetrock screws, albeit somewhat longer.
And there is a code for sheetrock screw nailing, screwing and it can be found in the applicable building code for your area.
The list could go on. I prefer the Grabber pan heads for mounting stuff. I think the big problem is using the mounting screw to be the grounding attachment, which is against the NEC.
I've done a lot of old work in Victorians with wall paper, wood lathe, and a variety of long sheetrock screws were an invaluable aid to good looking installations. The clips sometimes just weren't adequate.
paul