I don't understand this relay cover.

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ritelec

ritelec

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It says full load at 240v but it looks like it's only 120v to me.
I understand 50va at 24 volts (2amps) but is it really only good for .25a at 12volts?
After stating ratings for 24v and 12v it says for power pile use only. I don't get it.
After stating full load 7.4 amps @ 120v it says Max power load 1500va, is that for one 120v switch or combination of both switches? 12.5 a is not 7.4 and 7.4 x 2 is not 12.5

Thank you


relay.png
 
It will work for 240v but it's only opening/closing one leg(L1)

Edit: you would have to make sure you also have a proper disconnect for the 240v load.
 
ritelec said:
It says full load at 240v but it looks like it's only 120v to me.
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It's either voltage. IF you use 120V, the Full Load capacity is 7.4A. If you use it for 240V, the Full Load capacity is 3.7A. That's generally the opposite of how contacts are rated, but it must be related to the heat that the relay can handle in total; the 1500VA limit.
I understand 50va at 24 volts (2amps) but is it really only good for .25a at 12volts?
Click to expand...
The difference is AC vs DC. The Aux. contacts (X and X) are not suitable for more than 0.25A at 12VDC. Switching DC is more difficult than switching AC.
After stating ratings for 24v and 12v it says for power pile use only. I don't get it.
Click to expand...
It's for a temperature control circuit, the "power pile" is referring to the thermopile; the device that converts temperature to an electrical signal.
After stating full load 7.4 amps @ 120v it says Max power load 1500va, is that for one 120v switch or combination of both switches? 12.5 a is not 7.4 and 7.4 x 2 is not 12.5
Click to expand...
If you connect 2 x 120V separate loads that are at the full capacity of the relay contacts, that would be 14.8A and thereby 1776VA, it is telling you that you cannot do that. But you could connect two 120V loads that are 6A each.
 
1, 3 and 4: DPST normally open contactor. 1 is common. Each contact will handle 3.7A@240V or 7.4A@120V. These would be used to control a hydronic circulator and possibly the boiler burner if not low voltage controlled.

X and X are dry contacts, normally open. .25A@24VAC or for DC .25 to 12 from a power pile. These would be used for low voltage control of a boiler to turn it on when the circulator starts. They would land on T&T of the primary control.

You should know what T and T are.

-Hal
 
Jraef said:
If you connect 2 x 120V separate loads that are at the full capacity of the relay contacts, that would be 14.8A and thereby 1776VA, it is telling you that you cannot do that. But you could connect two 120V loads that are 6A each.
Click to expand...

Correct. The total combined load on 3 and 4 can't be more than 1500VA. Normally, if used for it's intended purpose, the circulator would be the largest load approaching 7.4A with the burner much less.

-Hal
 
Thank you.
And the transformer for the relay coil is a smart transformer? ( I’m assuming the coil is 24v? )
120 to 24 and 240 to 24 ?

I know of dual voltage equipment with out multi taps. Think this transformer is ?


If so, is it a given that 208v would work also ?
 
ritelec said:
After stating ratings for 24v and 12v it says for power pile use only. I don't get it.
Click to expand...
I used to live in a place with a boiler and hydronic heat system. boiler had a thermocoule on the standing pilot that not only turned the pilot valve off if the pilot went out but powered the gas valve via the room thermostat. This relay would be suitable for use on that system as a pump relay or some other accessory. Terminals 1,2,3,4 for the power supply and pump output, the aux terminals X X can switch the power pile driven gas valve.
 
ritelec said:
Thank you.
And the transformer for the relay coil is a smart transformer? ( I’m assuming the coil is 24v? )
120 to 24 and 240 to 24 ?

I know of dual voltage equipment with out multi taps. Think this transformer is ?


If so, is it a given that 208v would work also ?
Click to expand...

Nooo! The transformer primary is 120V!!

What are you using this for anyway?

-Hal
 
I’m not using it for anything. I was just looking at it on the internet then started questioning the info.

So if you were going to switch 240 you would need a neutral and switch one leg of the 240 and splice the other through.


Guessing the paperwork that comes with it states the transformer is rated for 120v ?
 
ritelec said:
I’m not using it for anything. I was just looking at it on the internet then started questioning the info.

So if you were going to switch 240 you would need a neutral and switch one leg of the 240 and splice the other through.


Guessing the paperwork that comes with it states the transformer is rated for 120v ?
Click to expand...
NO, you just put 240v to L1 and L2. When L1 leg gets power it closes and makes contact on BOTH 3 and 4(WHICH ARE THE SAME, terminal 3 AND terminal 4 ARE GETTING THERE POWER FROM L1). L2 is just there for supplying power to the transformer. L2 will always have connection to Load 1 and Load 2 but will do nothing until L1 has power. When L1 gets power the transformer will have power and then 3 and 4 contacts will close and have power coming from L1. The transformer can accept 120v or 240v, nothing is needed on your side other than supplying 120v or 240v to L1 and L2. LOAD 1 and LOAD 2 will have power coming from L2 (on the leg that directly connects to L2 on the diagram) and power from L1 on the 3 and 4 terminals when the contact closes.

EDIT: Just found this picture of the internal wiring. It might clear up some of it for you
1603762816175.png
 
It is poorly marked.

1 & 2 get 120 volts nothing else. They should tell you that. The only clue is on the cover which shows #1 hot and #2 ....nothing which is the neutral. X & X can only switch a low voltage load. T & T is the start stop or thermostat circuit. (jump T & T and the relay pulls in).

Any reference to switching 240 volts I don't know why they show it their diagram as with the 1-3 jumper you can't do it as drawn, although similar Honeywell relays have a removeable jumper between #1 and #3
 
When I look at the on-line manual from Honeywell, it appears that the relay in the OP is not a complete catalog number, which is why the wiring diagram is listed as being 'typical'.

TRADELINE MODELS AVAILABLE:
RA832A—120 and 240V models.
 
Those relays have been around unchanged since the 40's. If a HVAC guy knows what to do with it, an electrician should be ashamed of himself if he can't figure it out. :cry:

True, they should have indicated that the primary is 120V but that's the only voltage they were ever available in and if you are in the industry you know that. In the Honeywell catalog that information is given.

Electrical Ratings: Primary Voltage: 120V, 50/60

Honeywell Tradeline catalog- go to page 221.

https://www.buildingcontrolsgroup.c..._SalesBrochures/HoneywellTradelineCatalog.pdf

-Hal
 
jim dungar said:
When I look at the on-line manual from Honeywell, it appears that the relay in the OP is not a complete catalog number, which is why the wiring diagram is listed as being 'typical'.

TRADELINE MODELS AVAILABLE:
RA832A—120 and 240V models.
Click to expand...

That's interesting. Could you post the link? I see that kind of information in the supplier descriptions on their websites but I can tell you there never was one with a 240V transformer primary.

As to an incomplete catalog number, yes, Honeywell does append numbers after the part number to create the catalog number and in this case there are two models. Thing is both have the exact same electrical specifications and no clue as to what the differences are. It just may be an older and newer model, different case, etc.

-Hal
 
kwired said:
I have to say I think it is poorly marked, especially at indicating required transformer input volts.
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Probably irrelevant. Class 2 means it has to be under 30V and under 100VA. It just goes to the T-Stat then to the "coil", so if you feed it 240V and get 24V, or you feed it 120V and get 12V, it doesn't matter. That "coil" of the relay is likely a newer "universal" coil that's really a little SMPS that puts out 12VDC for the actual coil, accepting anything from 12-30VAC as the input. That's becoming more and more common now.
 
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