Ideas for entering underground feeder to a building and terminating to inside flush sub panel

[LarryFine]

You do realize that non factory field made holes (not knockouts) have to be approved by AHJ and may not pass code right?

You may well find yourself alone in that belief.

 

[Jpflex]

And is that panel in an exterior wall (just mounted between its studs and facing in)? Hopefully it is, so the main in the panel can be the building service disconnect.

 

[Jpflex]

No unfortunately, it’s inside within a non dwelling kitchen between studs.

 

[ptonsparky]

You do realize that non factory field made holes (not knockouts) have to be approved by AHJ and may not pass code right?

Pure baloney.

 

[electrofelon]

You do realize that non factory field made holes (not knockouts) have to be approved by AHJ and may not pass code right?

Just to add to what other have said: Every true panelboard comes with zero KO's. Wireways come with zero KO's. Some boxes come with KO's but they are always in the wrong spot so you punch where you need anyway......

LB into the back of the panel, punch a entry if you need to. IF your wall is 2x4, use a box adapter into the nose of the LB.

 

[ptonsparky]

Put them where it's easy to bend and route your conductors.

 

[suemarkp]

No unfortunately, it’s inside within a non dwelling kitchen between studs.

A feeder to a separate structure requires the building disconnect be nearest the point of entry of the conductors. Some areas have a local amendment allowing a certain distance like 3 feet or 15 feet of conductor in the building until it hits the disconnect. If that interior panel is further than that distance, you will need a disconnect where the conductors. Could be outside and you surface mount it and run the conduit up into the bottom. Then you could come out the back into the wall, or out the top up to the attic or joist space of a floor above.

 

[Jpflex]

A feeder to a separate structure requires the building disconnect be nearest the point of entry of the conductors. Some areas have a local amendment allowing a certain distance like 3 feet or 15 feet of conductor in the building until it hits the disconnect. If that interior panel is further than that distance, you will need a disconnect where the conductors. Could be outside and you surface mount it and run the conduit up into the bottom. Then you could come out the back into the wall, or out the top up to the attic or joist space of a floor above.

Yes thanks. It was never clear if the subpannel main breaker disconnect qualified as the building disconnect. From what you say local code or NEC may require another pull handle disconnect shorter than what I thought was within site or 50 feet.

Also there is a code and mention in Mike holts solar book which states that pannels such as in canneries, dairy farms, etc which have panels mounted on walls with absorbent material exposed to frequent washing must be mounted no less than 1/4 inch away from the wall to avoid water entering the panel. Mike holt says all outside panels but the code made it appear to apply only to inside walls exposed to frequent washing? Do I need a u strut to be placed behind conduit and first pull handle disconnect? NEC 312.2

 

[suemarkp]

Most 3R panels have little circular raised nubs around their rear mounting holes to create this 1/4" gap. If it is a wet (exterior) or interior washdown wall, you will need a 3R raintight panel.

 

[Jpflex]

Most 3R panels have little circular raised nubs around their rear mounting holes to create this 1/4" gap. If it is a wet (exterior) or interior washdown wall, you will need a 3R raintight panel.

Not it’s not a wall to be deliberately washed but rain will hit it outside

 

[ptonsparky]

A 3R enclosure has the dimpled mounting holes too use. I have made additional spacers by using a half inch hole saw and some plastic material of whatever thickness you need

 

[norcal]

May I ask where you got that idea? I've never heard that before.

Ron

Where else but the Urban Legend Code.