Ideas on running Wiremold across crown moulding

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Wiremold 500 bends fine in a 1/2 EMT bender. You want to limit yourself on how many degrees you bend it though, like about 22.5 degree bends at the most. Suggest wrapping it with tape, plastic, light cardboard, etc. to protect painted surface when bending, or make sure you have touch up paint.
 
Why not use the wiremold as a chase for Romex? stub the sraight pieces in to the crown and free air the romex in the gap?
 
Thank you for all the replies.

I really like the idea of replacing the cut out peice of crown moulding. Hate to say it but sometimes practicality on small jobs like this can somewhat override following the NEC (by personal judgement). With that said id still probably try to make it so that the peice of crown moulding can be removed to access the pull point.

As for the wireless switch, im pulling power from an outlet so I have to cross the crown moulding no matter what.

Thank you for all the suggestions!
 
sbaz1024 said:
Thank you for all the replies.

I really like the idea of replacing the cut out peice of crown moulding. Hate to say it but sometimes practicality on small jobs like this can somewhat override following the NEC (by personal judgement). With that said id still probably try to make it so that the peice of crown moulding can be removed to access the pull point.

As for the wireless switch, im pulling power from an outlet so I have to cross the crown moulding no matter what.

Thank you for all the suggestions!
Click to expand...

If I were planning something illegal, I prolly would not post it on the internet for anyone to see basically forever.;)
 
Once you remove the crown molding, can you then access the inside of the wall, and drop Romex down to the switch, and over to the ceiling fixture?
 
Probably not, due to the top plate. I agree with the other person who said this discussion is getting a bit silly.
 
Just a suggestion: (I assume the cove is painted and not stained finished.)

I have bent 90s on 500 WM with a 1/2" EMT bender.

It's the front pipe support (toe) of the bender that tends to distort the sweep of the 90 as it's being bent. Take care aligning the WM in the bender before you start bending the WM.

You say you will cut a slot out of the ceiling cove for the 500 WM.

I would suggest you first take a piece of blank paper or a piece of cardboard and draw an end view of the cove on the paper to actual dimensions. (Best you can)

Bend a 90 on a piece of discarded 500 WM. Place it on the drawing of the end view of the cove. Check how the radius of the bend looks. Does it somewhat fit the inside curve of the front edge of the cove?
Will it look respectable?

If it does cut the slot out of the cove for the WM. Install the WM and complete the wiring installation.

You can patch the cove using USG Lightweight Setting-Type Joint Compounds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoyYculBKdQ

The 20 minute sets up pretty fast, (don't mix up too much at a time), so you can sand and shape/sculpture the area you are filling usually within 30 minutes. It may take a few applications and sanding to get the desire look.
Finish off by priming and finish painting.
 
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