ohm
Senior Member
- Location
- Birmingham, AL
Well C2500 looks like your about to get into a fistfight or a lawsuit. I would step back a little and let the inspector and the idiot duke it out.
Fulthrotl said:relying on them to do the pool work correctly isn't warranted in many
cases as well....... after watching a number of pool contractors
do remodels, etc. i now understand why pool leaks around the skimmer are
so common. around so calif, shoddy work is pretty much the norm.
truth be told, i use #6 for everything, for a few reasons:
i always have a spool on the truck for services and whatnot.
it is far more difficult to break than #8, so it's physically more secure.
it cadwelds nicely. #8 is a bit thin and prone to scorching.
over half of the pool pumps i get service calls on aren't even grounded.
i just finished grounding a pool remodel in huntington beach, ca.
it amounts to:
two 8' stainless steel ground rods (SS is a local requirement)
burndy split bolt threaded lug replacing one of the motor bolts.
direct burial burndy ground clamp on the 1/2" existing bronze light conduit.
two fresh pool shell bond attachments, *not* using old #8 wire, cadwelded.
#6 copper from pool equipment to service, direct burial in dirt
#6 copper inside of light conduit, from wet niche lug to bond
all connections cadwelded, including to the ground rods.
3m wet niche potting compound used on the niche lug.
why so bulletproof?
15 years ago, i ended up giving expert testimony in a wrongful death
investigation by a grand jury in a pool light electrocution.
the person who did the work, and was subsequently indicted, and
convicted of manslaughter, went to prison, and lost over 2 million
dollars in the civil aspect of the proceeding. a 19 year old girl died.
how'd you like to explain to the district attorney how you saved $$$
by using the bare minimum? i've never had any reaction to my overkill
grounding other than satisfaction from an inspector.
that's why.
i've also had to prove to the inspector that my grounding is
sufficient, as in less than 25 ohms. my ground from the forming
shell to earth ground is usually about .3 ohms.
i've also had to prove connectivity on a filled commercial pool, or
the inspector was going to make the pool contractor remove and redo
all 5 lights. that can be accomplished by meggering the lamp bezel to
the ground rod, with a digital megger, and seeing how many volts
difference of potential there is, with 1000 volts applied. there shouldn't
be more than 1 volt difference of potential.
randy
EBFD6 said:Like I said before, I am not a pool expert and would love to hear peoples opinions on this subject.
EBFD6 said:First off let me qualify my statement by saying that I do not wire pools so my limited knowledge of pool codes are from what I have heard in various code classes and not from personal experience, but.........
I was under the impression that you are supposed to bond pools not ground pools. Bonding all metal parts of a pool together to bring everything to the same potential. I was told that driving ground rods and "grounding" a pool is actually more dangerous than not, I have actually heard these installs referred to as "in-law pools" (the only people that you would want swimming in those death traps are your in-laws).
Like I said before, I am not a pool expert and would love to hear peoples opinions on this subject.
Fulthrotl said:here's the deal with multiple ground rods... if they are not bonded
together,
It takes an extreme earth current to create that kind of voltage gradient.iwire said:As far as 5 amps of current between two rods only 25' apart it show seems like there may have been other things happening besides just distance and soil.
SPARKS40 said:. I think that installers of these products should be properly trained in the electrical end of it.
iwire said:Randy why are there rods being installed at a pool?
When would you ever have multiple grounding electrodes that where not bonded together?
As far as 5 amps of current between two rods only 25' apart it show seems like there may have been other things happening besides just distance and soil.
Fulthrotl said:it seems to be a very
dangerous practice to have two separate earth reference points.
initially, the voltage was measured with a fluke bench meter,
and the thought was that it was a transient voltage, without
any oomph behind it, so a simpson moving coil meter was used,
and the voltage held. so we put a wire between the two rods
and put an analog amprobe around it and it came up at 5 amps.