Induction Cooktop 3 wire or new construction connections

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Greg1707

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Attached is the instructions for connecting a induction cooktop. I find the illustration to be confusing. Is there a difference between the two options?
 

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Another manufacturer that doesn't understand electrical requirements. They are attempting to show you how to connect to an existing 3-wire circuit and use the grounded conductor as the equipment grounding (per 250.140 Exception.) But they show the 3-wire circuit as 2 phase conductors and an EGC rather than 2 phase conductors and a neutral.
 
Greg1707 said:
Attached is the instructions for connecting a induction cooktop. I find the illustration to be confusing. Is there a difference between the two options?
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If badly written then perhaps not listed.

Is there an NRTL listing?

If not, the appliance is illegal in the US.
 
Yeah, pretty stupid.

The difference between the two is the first one is for an existing 3-wire feeder and the second is for a 4-wire feeder.

With the 3-wire feeder you have the two hots (240v) and a ground. No neutral.

With the 4-wire feeder you have the two hots (240v) a white neutral and a ground.

What makes those instructions stupid is that the cooktop does not need the neutral. So all they have to say is that with the 4-wire feeder just cap off the white. Otherwise both cases are the same.

-Hal
 
It looks like real experts wrote this:

"[E] Connect the red and black leads from the cooktop conduit to the corresponding leads in the junction box.
Connect the ground wire.
[F] Once the connections are made, secure wires together using wire nuts."

So apparently you must make all of the connections first before using any wire nuts. :(
 
I hadn't thought much about it, but why are we faffing about with 14-50s if a 6-50 will do? (I can actually think of a couple of reasons, but also not sure I agree with them. Is it because folks started with the 10-50 and assumed a neutral was needed?)

(It's getting too late to ponder this sort of thing right now.)
 
Because ranges (which generally are/were 120/240V) had 120V light bulbs in the oven. So neutral required. If they use LED lighting now, they could make that operate at 240V.
 
I got to ask. I Went to a clients home were she was feeling a slight tingle, when grabbing the pan and touching the dishwasher. Found dishwasher did not have a ground ( was lose) Range a 4 wire. Was she feeling capacitance from current running through the Pan??? she said she never felt it till her new stove. Fixed ground and now its alright. Just wondering?

Sorry to Jack thread!
 
AC\DC said:
I got to ask. I Went to a clients home were she was feeling a slight tingle, when grabbing the pan and touching the dishwasher. Found dishwasher did not have a ground ( was lose) Range a 4 wire. Was she feeling capacitance from current running through the Pan??? she said she never felt it till her new stove. Fixed ground and now its alright. Just wondering?

Sorry to Jack thread!
Click to expand...
Repairing the DW ground removed the symptom, it did not fix anything. Dollars to doughnuts the DW does not have GFCI protection.
 
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