insert wire terminals

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480sparky said:
screwpressureplate.jpg
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Anyone who argues about 15a devices not being capable of conducting 20a current notice that the same "triple-wipe" contact parts are used even when the slots are not T-shaped? Look carefully inside the lower hot-side slot.
 
LarryFine said:
Anyone who argues about 15a devices not being capable of conducting 20a current notice that the same "triple-wipe" contact parts are used even when the slots are not T-shaped? Look carefully inside the lower hot-side slot.
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No it does not prove anything.


That argument would work if the plug in the picture was a 15 amp.

Being a 20 amp of course it has the ability to accept both 15 and 20 amp plugs.

I do agree with the fact that a 15 amp receptacle can handle 20 amps and will have the same 'guts' as the same make and grade 20 amp.
 
walkerj said:
THAT'S what i was talkin about! Nothing beats hooking it on the screw and tightening with a flat head
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But that's not the design shown. There's a pressure plate under the screw's head. You get the same connection with the pressure plate as you would with looping your wire, but you don't need to bend the wire around these screws. Just strip, stick and spin.
 
480sparky said:
But that's not the design shown. There's a pressure plate under the screw's head. You get the same connection with the pressure plate as you would with looping your wire, but you don't need to bend the wire around these screws. Just strip, stick and spin.
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Yea that,s what i was talkin about earlier. I've pulled out too many of those and had the wires not come with the device, but rather stay in their place in the box. I go for the standard hook on tightened with a flat head.
I'll trust a backstabber over a pressure plate any day by the way
 
walkerj said:
Yea that,s what i was talkin about earlier. I've pulled out too many of those and had the wires not come with the device, but rather stay in their place in the box. I go for the standard hook on tightened with a flat head.
I'll trust a backstabber over a pressure plate any day by the way
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First time I've heard this one... Someone's doing it wrong. Is there any commonality to the situations where you find this to be an issue?
 
tallguy said:
First time I've heard this one... Someone's doing it wrong. Is there any commonality to the situations where you find this to be an issue?
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Yes! Not using the proper tool for the job. A philips just can't give you the same torque as a flat head. IMO neither can a #2 square tip
 
walkerj said:
Yes! Not using the proper tool for the job. A philips just can't give you the same torque as a flat head. IMO neither can a #2 square tip
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And unless you saw the initial install, how can you know what was used to torque the thing:-? :smile:

BTW -- Where is "The Red Stick"??
 
tallguy said:
And unless you saw the initial install, how can you know what was used to torque the thing:-? :smile:

BTW -- Where is "The Red Stick"??
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You can tell if it is philips or square because they will slip out and strip the head slightly. Not all the time, but on the ones with loose connections, that is the culprit. Red Stick is English for Baton Rouge
 
but the 14/12 backstab combos are not available anymore.
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the last time i saw one of those was about two years ago, which was when the company i worked for switched to #14 where allowed. i've never had a problem w/ back-stabbed wiring. i don't have any experience w/ halo poke-home connectors, but those on lithonia recessed are great. never had a problem w/ them. while we're talking about recessed, have any of you used the lithonia product? i've probably installed 200 halo's max, and thought the lithonia blew them away. much easier to install, rough and trim. anyhow.

What I like best about back-wired devices is not having to pigtail when there are more than two wires per side or when split-wiring.
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you probably know this and just didn't have it in your post, but i don't think you're allowed to do that w/ the neutral.

I've pulled out too many of those and had the wires not come with the device, but rather stay in their place in the box. I go for the standard hook on tightened with a flat head
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w/ back wired, you have two holes on either side of the screw. make sure you put it in so that the screw is pulling the wire in, and use a flathead. ex. on a recep w/ the ground pin down, put the hot in the hole under the screw, so a clockwise turn will pull it. opposite on the neutral, else you're putting pressure to push the wires back out.
 
ok if we are passing out our 2 cents i got a pennies worth
If your like me and doing dozens of cans in houses the wago installed correctly
are the way to go. Halo doesnt put em in all of their models neither do the other brands. So i buy the new wagos that are made for stranded conductors and use those . Never had a problem. On the other hand back in the old days before wagos i can remember having to test run all those cans before we buried em and on occasion finding a wire come out of the nut
thats my pennies worth:roll:
 
brantmacga said:
you probably know this and just didn't have it in your post, but i don't think you're allowed to do that w/ the neutral.
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That's only true when the neutral is shared by more than one phase conductor.



w/ back wired, you have two holes on either side of the screw. make sure you put it in so that the screw is pulling the wire in, and use a flathead. ex. on a recep w/ the ground pin down, put the hot in the hole under the screw, so a clockwise turn will pull it. opposite on the neutral, else you're putting pressure to push the wires back out.
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That shouldn't matter, since the plate is square and doesn't turn with the screw.
 
LarryFine said:
That shouldn't matter, since the plate is square and doesn't turn with the screw.
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This always drives me crazy with QO CBs... On those the plate does turn, and quite a bit at that. Have to do it carefully to keep the wire in the channel and not crossed over it diagonally. It is listed for two conductors, however, so life has its tradeoffs.
 
That's only true when the neutral is shared by more than one phase conductor.
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yep. 480 set me straight on that just above.


That shouldn't matter, since the plate is square and doesn't turn with the screw.
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well you might think, but it solved our problem w/ the wires coming out the back of the GFCI's. maybe its not true for all brands?
 
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