Inserting wireway into conduit run

[electrofelon]

I have 2 runs of 2 1/2 EMT I need to insert a wireway into. Everything on both ends is tight and would be real hassle to get enough play to get the EMT connector into the wireway after I cut out the EMT's to the width of the wireway. What is the best way to do this? I come up with the following options:

1. 2 piece EMT connector. Problem is I don't think anyone makes one in a two and a half....

2. This thing:. It's 2 in which is not ideal I could reduce to it I think it would meet conduit fill as a nipple

2

2 Adjust-It Box To Box Connectors, 5 To 7 Length - Steel

www.southwire.com

3. Threaded coupling flush with the wire way with a chase nipple threaded into it from the inside of the cabinet.

4. Similar to three, but use a running thread nipple and thread the lock nuts in as I go.

Whatcha think?

 

[infinity]

I've installed the two end plates on the EMT and then slid the wireway in and bolted on the end plates. Done.

 

[jaggedben]

I started to post #4 but then realized you already mentioned it.

 

[electrofelon]

I've installed the two end plates on the EMT and then slid the wireway in and bolted on the end plates. Done.

Problem is I'm entering into the long sides of the wireway not the ends.

 

[electrofelon]

I started to post #4 but then realized you already mentioned it.

I think I like 4 better than 3. These are feeders with no EGC, which I am fine with, but the RGS coupling on one side and the chase nipple on the other side doesn't provide much opportunity to dig thru the paint and make a solid electrical connection like lock nuts do. Also 3 is perhaps a bit marginal from a listing/instructions standpoint of the parts and how they are used.

 

[wwhitney]

Metal wireways don't have to be listed, right? So you could just do a little surgery on the wireway to let it fit and patch it back together.

Eg, I think a 2-1/2" KO is 3-1/2" in diameter. So cut a KO on one side, and opposite it where the other EMT connector is, cut out a strip that is a 5"x5" square centered on the KO, but extended to the front edge of the wireway. [I'm assuming the wireway is a U cross section with a removeable cover, but even with a hinged cover, you can do the same on the edge without the hinge.]

Now the wireway should be able to be maneuvered into place, by approaching with it turned 90 degrees from the final orientation, passing the slot over the EMT connector, then turning the wireway 90 degrees into its final orientation but offset, and then sliding the KO over the other EMT connector.

Then you just need, say, a 7" wide strip that will cover the slot with some overlap, with your KO in it, that you can slide over the EMT connector and screw to the wireway to restore its integrity.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[wwhitney]

The above description was just for one EMT run, sounds like you have two, so it would take two cutouts.

How about EMT couplings without internal stops? If those exist, or you can modify some couplings to remove the internal stop, then you can easily do it.

Just cut out a wider section of EMT, slide the couplings on cut ends, make up your wireway with EMT connectors and short EMT stubs of the proper length, mount in position with the stubs lined up with the cut ends, and slide the EMT couplings over each joint and secure.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[electrofelon]

Metal wireways don't have to be listed, right? So you could just do a little surgery on the wireway to let it fit and patch it back together.

Eg, I think a 2-1/2" KO is 3-1/2" in diameter. So cut a KO on one side, and opposite it where the other EMT connector is, cut out a strip that is a 5"x5" square centered on the KO, but extended to the front edge of the wireway. [I'm assuming the wireway is a U cross section with a removeable cover, but even with a hinged cover, you can do the same on the edge without the hinge.]

Now the wireway should be able to be maneuvered into place, by approaching with it turned 90 degrees from the final orientation, passing the slot over the EMT connector, then turning the wireway 90 degrees into its final orientation but offset, and then sliding the KO over the other EMT connector.

Then you just need, say, a 7" wide strip that will cover the slot with some overlap, with your KO in it, that you can slide over the EMT connector and screw to the wireway to restore its integrity.

Cheers, Wayne

perhaps...its a bite mongrel but would certainly work. I would probably go with option 3 or 4 over the hack 'N patch..

 

[electrofelon]

The above description was just for one EMT run, sounds like you have two, so it would take two cutouts.

How about EMT couplings without internal stops? If those exist, or you can modify some couplings to remove the internal stop, then you can easily do it.

Just cut out a wider section of EMT, slide the couplings on cut ends, make up your wireway with EMT connectors and short EMT stubs of the proper length, mount in position with the stubs lined up with the cut ends, and slide the EMT couplings over each joint and secure.

Cheers, Wayne

yeah the die cast couplings would probably be easy to take the ridge out.

 

[LarryFine]

How about a couple of Ericksons on one side? That should let you roll the wireway into place.

 

[LarryFine]

If you measure and cut carefully, you should be able to use compression fittings to make enough space to insert the wireway, then move the fittings toward it enough to screw on the locknuts and still have the conduits engaged.

The important thing is that the socket end of the connector is deeper than the length of the threaded end. If you need a bit more length, you could replace nearby couplings with compression couplings to gain even more play.

Added: I'm suggesting compression fittings because the compression ring is farther from the bottom of the conduit socket than the set-screws usually are, and will grip conduit better with shallow insertion into fittings.

 

[wwhitney]

This would be perfect but they don't list it in 2.5":

Mighty-Align® Steel SLP Slip Connectors

Mighty-Align® SLP Series Slip EMT Connectors. No more wasting time with short conduit cuts. Used to connect EMT to an enclosure in tight or limited access applications. Simply slide fitting onto conduit to the end stop, position EMT, and then slide the co

www.bptfittings.com

But they do have slip 2.5" EMT couplings:

Bridgeport

BETTER WAYS TO GET THE JOB DONE RESOURCES Related products Bridgeport Compliance Documents ASK US ABOUT BRIDGEPORT

www.bptfittings.com

Cheers, Wayne

 

[jaggedben]

Hmmm, if you are planning to cut into an existing EMT run and then pull new wire straight through then you need to comply with 376.23(B). Is your wireway 20" tall?

On the other hand, if you can offset one side of the EMT 20" over then you can comply with a much smaller wireway, and you can also just rotate the wireway into position.

 

[ritelec]

This would be perfect but they don't list it in 2.5":

Mighty-Align® Steel SLP Slip Connectors

Mighty-Align® SLP Series Slip EMT Connectors. No more wasting time with short conduit cuts. Used to connect EMT to an enclosure in tight or limited access applications. Simply slide fitting onto conduit to the end stop, position EMT, and then slide the co

www.bptfittings.com

But they do have slip 2.5" EMT couplings:

Bridgeport

BETTER WAYS TO GET THE JOB DONE RESOURCES Related products Bridgeport Compliance Documents ASK US ABOUT BRIDGEPORT

www.bptfittings.com

Cheers, Wayne

Slip coupling.... they make such a beast?

I once had to work two 4" emt from both ends to the center and created a 4" "slip coupling" (and called it a slip coupling ) to join them.

Now I know.

Thank you

 

[electrofelon]

Hmmm, if you are planning to cut into an existing EMT run and then pull new wire straight through then you need to comply with 376.23(B). Is your wireway 20" tall?

On the other hand, if you can offset one side of the EMT 20" over then you can comply with a much smaller wireway, and you can also just rotate the wireway into position.

Yeah the stupid nonsensical 376.23....Im not using the wireway as a pull box ....this isn't getting inspected so whatever. One of the pipes is just a pull straight thru, the other has conductors deflecting into the wireway.

 

[electrofelon]

If you measure and cut carefully, you should be able to use compression fittings to make enough space to insert the wireway, then move the fittings toward it enough to screw on the locknuts and still have the conduits engaged.

The important thing is that the socket end of the connector is deeper than the length of the threaded end. If you need a bit more length, you could replace nearby couplings with compression couplings to gain even more play.

Added: I'm suggesting compression fittings because the compression ring is farther from the bottom of the conduit socket than the set-screws usually are, and will grip conduit better with shallow insertion into fittings.

Yeah I could use compressions and just cut the pipes a little loose. I could even split the slop across both fittings.