Inspector rules

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wbalsam1

Senior Member
Location
Upper Jay, NY
Here are some "rules" I've come across over the years. They're not in the code, they're just "rules" fashioned by inspectors. Feel free to add to the list.
  • Only 4 receptacles allowed on each SABC
  • Only 10 general purpose receptacles on a circuit in a dwelling
  • No more than 3 cables in a bored hole
  • No more than 4 cables in a bored hole (different inspector)
  • No multi-wire circuits in the kitchen..........
 
I cant add to that list, only subtract. when I work I play by the rules, anyone inspecting my work I require to do the same, no code number from inspector means he is out of luck.
 
  • GFCI protected receptacles required in retail stores that have a cement floor.
  • IG receptacles not allowed because "There's no such thing as an isolated ground"
  • 'Conductors buried below' warning ribbon above PVC conduits containing branch circuits for site poles. (This required an immediate trip to the supply house with a 90 min round trip)
 
A pull-chain light on a dedicated circuit within 3 feet of the panel.
A dedicated-circuit receptacle next to the panel.
Panel must be mounted so door opens left to right.
Circuit numbers written on the inside of switch & receptacle covers.
3-ways installed so if both are up or both are down, the light is on.
1-pole circuits on the left side of the panel, 2-pole circuits on the right.
Circuits installed in the panel so the 15-a breakers are on top, 20-a below them, then the 30-, 40- 50- and 60-amps at the bottom.
Labeling NM sheath above the panel.
Wiring diagram (as-built) inside panel door.
12' receptacle rule applies to unfinished rooms, including basement.
At least 1 pull-chain or switched keyless in attic, more if it's a large attic.
Same as above for crawl spaces.

Gimme time. I've got a ton of 'em stashed in my noodle.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
#12 wire cannot be on a 15 amp breaker
#12 wire cannot be on a 15 amp breaker unless it is identified

Wow. Does that sound familiar? Pigtail a short piece of 10 on it, then! :grin:
 
-Any ceiling mounted box for a light must be the fan rated
-Only one bathroom per 20 amp circuit even when only serving receptacles
-Must have a pullchain light receptacle over the panel
-Must have #4 to a ground rod
-Every non-counter receptacle in the kitchen must be GFCI protected
-Every circuit checked for voltage drop, and failed if below 5%
 
You need to use brass nuts, bolts, washers, and lock washers for mechanical ground lugs. I'm not kidding. This took a special trip to Home Depot. I think I broke most of the bolts tightening them down.
 
wbalsam1 said:
Here are some "rules" I've come across over the years. They're not in the code, they're just "rules" fashioned by inspectors. Feel free to add to the list.
  • Only 4 receptacles allowed on each SABC
  • Only 10 general purpose receptacles on a circuit in a dwelling
  • No more than 3 cables in a bored hole
  • No more than 4 cables in a bored hole (different inspector)
  • No multi-wire circuits in the kitchen..........

Remember ..Fashioned by SOME inspectors does not mean all inspectors..;)
 
radiopet said:
Remember ..Fashioned by SOME inspectors does not mean all inspectors..;)

Sorry I didn't make that clear. I'm an inspector, too. That's how I hear about so many of these "rules"...by disgruntled installers who've run up against these "rule makers". :smile:
 
480sparky said:
A pull-chain light on a dedicated circuit within 3 feet of the panel.
A dedicated-circuit receptacle next to the panel.
Panel must be mounted so door opens left to right.
Circuit numbers written on the inside of switch & receptacle covers.
3-ways installed so if both are up or both are down, the light is on.
1-pole circuits on the left side of the panel, 2-pole circuits on the right.
Circuits installed in the panel so the 15-a breakers are on top, 20-a below them, then the 30-, 40- 50- and 60-amps at the bottom.
Labeling NM sheath above the panel.
Wiring diagram (as-built) inside panel door.
12' receptacle rule applies to unfinished rooms, including basement.
At least 1 pull-chain or switched keyless in attic, more if it's a large attic.
Same as above for crawl spaces.

Gimme time. I've got a ton of 'em stashed in my noodle.


You really work with a bunch of dopes. :roll:
 
(adjoining jurisdaiction)
1. no matter what type of outdoor receptacles are available from a deck situated 1 step from grade, there still must be a receptacle installed above "grade = dirt" as opposed above deck=wood
2. If the fusible disconnect is rated 200 amps, the wire must aslo be rated 200 amps. (regardless of load or drawgs, "it will take a 200 amp fuse, it needs 200 amp wire"
 
augie47 said:
If the fusible disconnect is rated 200 amps, the wire must aslo be rated 200 amps. (regardless of load or drawgs, "it will take a 200 amp fuse, it needs 200 amp wire"


You have got to be kidding....
 
augie47 said:
(adjoining jurisdaiction)
2. If the fusible disconnect is rated 200 amps, the wire must aslo be rated 200 amps. (regardless of load or drawgs, "it will take a 200 amp fuse, it needs 200 amp wire"

I have heard this one too.

Chris
 
ultramegabob said:
does that apply to all fused disconnects? no matter what your using it for, you have to run the max sized wire???

Mostly I have heard this for service disconnects, and feeder disconnects.

Chris
 
480sparky said:
At least 1 pull-chain or switched keyless in attic, more if it's a large attic.
Same as above for crawl spaces.
lol...well now...I may also require these if meet the requirements of 210.70(A)(3) for dwellings or 210.70(C) for other than dwellings.......not so much the "Or if it's larger part" and I would want the switch at point of entry but.....depends if i have storage or equipment requiring service....must have missed something....probably the if larger part you are refering too.
 
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