Installing exterior light fixture

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Sonny Boy

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What's the best method for installing an exterior light fixture adjacent to an garage entryway door? Use an old work box? Use a pancake box?

Thanks,
Mike
 
Installing exterior light fixture

Sonny Boy said:
What's the best method for installing an exterior light fixture adjacent to an garage entryway door? Use an old work box? Use a pancake box?

Thanks,
Mike
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Both will work. Just watch box fill on the pancake box.
 
If you mount a pancake box what will you mount it to???? You can't mount it outside-- most fixtures won't cover it. I suggest a pop in round old work box like the one below
C118WAC.jpg
 
The answer depends on the type of construction.IE: frame, block.On frame a cut in box works great.On block if the cell is hollow a cut in works fine if solid chipping so it is flush is really needed, since most coach lights wont cover the depth of the pancake box.And yes watching the cu. in. fill is needed.Some argue that the canopy gives you extra sq. in area.Our inspectors don`t buy that.One wire to each coach light and a j box in the garage ceiling is what we do.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
If you mount a pancake box what will you mount it to???? You can't mount it outside-- most fixtures won't cover it. I suggest a pop in round old work box like the one below
C118WAC.jpg
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Ever hear of a siding block?
k3_r2.jpeg
 
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Whats ugly as sin? I generally have the carpenter make them out of ceder for me....If the siding is wood of course... what do you use? It's the only way I do it... You need a siding block or else the fixture looks like crap.... and you need to meet 410.4 (A) IMO it would be pretty hard to stop water entering a fixture without a flat surface to run a bead of silicon around....
 
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stickboy1375 said:
Whats ugly as sin? I generally have the carpenter make them out of ceder for me....If the siding is wood of course... what do you use? It's the only way I do it... Why would I want to waste time cutting in a OWB? when I can just use a 4" hole saw?
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The picture you posted looks like that plastic junk that I have seen people use with vinyl siding (sorry)... But I also make the carpenter's do the same with a 2x6 of fir, cedar, cypress or whatever the siding is made of , but I use my 3 5/8" hole saw and drill all the way through the siding and mount a pop in round box. I don't use the one in the picture but something similar made by Thomas and Betts. I just hat the pancakes because of the lack of space, and the fixture nipple that may have to recess get in the way, blah, blah, blah.
 
Right... I like the support of a pancake fastened to the wall, besides that too many times you end up on a stud anyhow...so I just keep my install the same under every cirumstance....
 
stickboy1375 said:
Right... I like the support of a pancake fastened to the wall, besides that too many times you end up on a stud anyhow...so I just keep my install the same under every cirumstance....
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I often finish my rough in before the carpenter get done and they mount their block right where my wire is and they leave the wire in the wall --I prefer that because there are fixtures that I don't want to mount in the center of the block. Some of them have a base that is not in center and the light looks awkward if the box is centered. We don't always have the luxury of knowing the fixture beforehand.
 
My favorite method is to use my 4" hole-saw to make a hole in the sheathing adjacent to a stud, and use a standard round plastic nail-on poked out enough to suit the veneer.

If needed, I'll add a 2x4 block for spacing. I often do the same thing for exterior receptacle boxes; reversing the nails makes it easy to nail onto the stud from the inside.
 
Thanks for the ideas

Thanks for the ideas

The exterior wall is plywood. The siding wouldn't be a problem. The customer decided she wants a soffit(sp) mounted recessed light. Which will satisfy code because of its location in relation to the exterior door. The only glitch is she wants the same type fixture as the existing soffit fixtures.

Know any lighting manufactuers of soffit type fixtures?

Thanks,
Mike
 
I'm sure everyones method works great, I was taught the way I do it, it works, I can do it quickly, and I know what I need to do every trim out without to many surprises...

I also use new work plastic boxes for my outside receptacles... bell boxes have to be the ugliest thing I have every seen on a house...
 
Sonny Boy said:
The exterior wall is plywood. The siding wouldn't be a problem. The customer decided she wants a soffit(sp) mounted recessed light. Which will satisfy code because of its location in relation to the exterior door. The only glitch is she wants the same type fixture as the existing soffit fixtures.

Know any lighting manufactuers of soffit type fixtures?

Thanks,
Mike
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On fixtures let them supply and you install,your day will go much better
 
I got the bid for job.

I got the bid for job.

Jim W in Tampa said:
And untill you see them you can not select method of install.T AND M and you will walk away happy
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Code says...an exit light is required. I'll drill a hole through the soffit and poke a 12" length of romex out so Mr. Inspector can see.
 
Sonny Boy said:
The exterior wall is plywood. The siding wouldn't be a problem. The customer decided she wants a soffit(sp) mounted recessed light. Which will satisfy code because of its location in relation to the exterior door. The only glitch is she wants the same type fixture as the existing soffit fixtures.

Know any lighting manufactuers of soffit type fixtures?

Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...


What is code on that? It has been a while since I had to look, but if I remember, there is no set distance a light is supposed to be from a required location. I think NEC has changed twice since this has been an issue with me, so forgive my ignorance. This post brought it back to memory.

By the way. I usually use fiberglass re-work box because of no wings and the ears, or a pancake with spacers to keep it flush, depending on the number of wires and/or location landing me on a wall stud (no room for a standard box).
 
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