Installing vanity light

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jksmith82 said:
Hi craigv,
That May work. But the bathroom has been painted as well. The contractor won’t be happy if he needs to patch or spackle. I was also think of putting ears on an old work shallow 4 inch. But that wouldn’t be UL rated.

Jim
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I know you already found an old wrk box that'll fit, but just to address the issue of not being able to damage and repaint (which on a reno shouldn't be an issue, but....) I use a good fast setting construction adhesive such as Locktite Power Grab to install the backers. Just give it a few minutes to set and you can go to town.
 
Frank DuVal said:
DWV usually tested before it is connected to sewer/septic pipe.

Same devices shown cap the exit pipe for testing.

The inflatable ones can go into cleanout tees to plug the exit line also.
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That is usually long before the situation OP is in where he is trying to install a fixture.
 
I know this doesn’t help the current situation, but adding for future reference;

What I do for new work vanity lights is install a pancake box attached to a Caddy TSGB16 box bracket. It’s thin enough to clear the vent stack and gives you an attachment point for the pancake box.


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brantmacga said:
I know this doesn’t help the current situation, but adding for future reference;

What I do for new work vanity lights is install a pancake box attached to a Caddy TSGB16 box bracket. It’s thin enough to clear the vent stack and gives you an attachment point for the pancake box.


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Do you install this bracket during the rough?
If so, how do you know where to put it?
I usually just leave an NM whip in the wall covered with drywall, then when doing the finish I cut out the hole depending on the vanity, mirror, etc. It is then when one can discover the "infamous vent stack"!

I can see how this bracket would work but you would need to know where to put it. I know if you think the light mount will be in the same stud bay as the vent you would put it there. But if you don't know the height of the light I don't see how it would help if you don't know where (height) to put it.
 
Raco 297: Another option for the same secenario

Raco 297: Another option for the same secenario

jksmith82 said:
That is correct rob. I finally found a UL rated 4 inch round old work box at a supply house.its made by Arlington. Thanks everyone for the help..... and the jokes. ������ have a great day.

jim
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I just saw in the September edition of the Electrical Contractor magazine, a box made by Raco, that is another variation of the one by Arlington. I believe it was a Raco 297.

here is a link from the manufacturer: https://www.hubbell.com/raco/en/c/297/p/2694189
 
Who supplies the light?
If not you did you have a bath layout?
If them and no, I wouldn't worry about a couple screw holes needing to be punch list painted.
I normally just drill across horizontal about 7' off the floor and leave a long romex to pull out later.
 
Several years ago, in new construction, I had a pair of bathrooms with back-to-back vanities with sinks that shared the same vent stack. I used a hole-saw to make a hole in a piece of 2x4 that cleared the pipe, then cut it in half at the hole, put the two halves around the pipe, screwed the butt ends to the studs, and screwed a pair of metal pancake boxes to the 2x4 so the boxes effectively re-joined the 2x4.

I know this doesn't really help in the case of existing work, which is why I hadn't posted this sooner.
 
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