jacuzzi 120 or 240?

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iwirehouses

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We are putting in a jacuzzi, in which we used 12-2 to rough in. Every jacuzzi I ever installed, is usually around 15 amps, 120 volts. So I put in a switched GFI on a dedicated 20 amp line. Well this one has a 15 amp plug for the pump and a 15 amp plug for the blower and the diagram shows each one gets its own breaker. Right above the two breakers, it says "120v or 240v". Does this mean I have to fish a second 120v line or is there an option to run this whole thing on 240 volts?

This is pretty much what I'm looking at...
http://www.dougstubs.com/MiscFiles/10024484_0505.pdf
page 11
figure 3b


Thanks guys :)
 
ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
Each electronic component (pump,
blower, heater) must be connected to a
separate 110/120 volt circuit, protected
by a class A ground fault circuit.
(Outside Canada and U.S.A., refer to
current standards in country in
question).


From your instructions at that link.
 
I once hooked one up that had a pump operating at 120 volts and a heater that could run at either 120 volts (15 amps)or 240 volts (30 amps). The 240 volt connection had a heater output that was 4X the 120 volt connection. My guess is that some people wanted the water to heat up faster so they used 240 volts.
 
Yes, many spas and hot-tubs are convertible to either voltage, and the main difference is the heater power, as Trevor mentioned, and that the main high-speed motor can't run during heating; you have to choose between bubbles and heat.

Unfortunately, the two-circuit bath-tub type require just what they say: two 120v circuits. You usually find out this stuff before wiring for it. You can use 12-3 when the GFCI's will be located at the tub, but you need two 12-2's if they're in the panel.

It looks like you need to run another cable. Please don't even consider using the 12-2 as a 12-3 w/o ground.
 
infinity said:
I once hooked one up that had a pump operating at 120 volts and a heater that could run at either 120 volts (15 amps)or 240 volts (30 amps). The 240 volt connection had a heater output that was 4X the 120 volt connection. My guess is that some people wanted the water to heat up faster so they used 240 volts.
Click to expand...
That's really bizarre... most resistive heaters I've seen that are set up for dual voltage actually have two elements that are wired in series or parallel depending on the voltage. Usually the kW stays the same. I'm guessing that the unit you refer to has a single 240V element, thus when connected to 120V it works, but the current halves. (current is proportional to voltage across a fixed resistance; V=IR)
 
I see. I see. Well, good thing I left the fish tape going from the basment to the second floor, along the shit pipe. I'll pull another 12-2 before they put in the tile. I'm researching every jacuzzi from now on.
 
Rampage_Rick said:
I'm guessing that the unit you refer to has a single 240V element, thus when connected to 120V it works, but the current halves. (current is proportional to voltage across a fixed resistance; V=IR)
Click to expand...


Exactly, you have a 240 volt element that would operate at 1/4 power output when you applied only 120 volts.
 
What would really be nice is if the mfr. would tell you exactly what the current draw is for each unit (like they did with the dual pump one that specifies two s/p 30 amp lines). That way you can make the determination as to what size and type wire to run. It would also be nice if they provided separate instructions in English, French and Spanish. Reading through the instructions is like watching a movie with sub-titles !!!
 
Alright, fished the second line. I guess now my question is whats the best way to put a single switch/timer to control two 15 amp receptacles on two seperate circuits? One for the pump, one for the blower.
 
iwirehouses said:
Alright, fished the second line. I guess now my question is whats the best way to put a single switch/timer to control two 15 amp receptacles on two seperate circuits? One for the pump, one for the blower.
Click to expand...
A 2-pole timer, or a timer controlling a 2-pole contactor.
 
I thought it was a code to have a switch 59" from the tub. Never really looked for it in the book, just always did it. You don't need this switch?
 
iwirehouses said:
I thought it was a code to have a switch 59" from the tub. Never really looked for it in the book, just always did it. You don't need this switch?
Click to expand...

You need a disco within sight of the motor, thus the receptacle under the tub would be the disco. No switch is needed outside the tub area. I normally use a faceless Gfci (switch) with a standard receptacle under the tub. The faceless GFCI then becomes a disco if the airswitch should get stuck but this is not required.

I like having the reset in the bath area. Remeber this is a hydromassage tub not a hot tub--they are different animals.
 
Ok, thank you for the information. I believe an electrician told me one day a jacuzzi needs a timer so that it turns off when people fall asleep in it. Maybe I interpreted this wrong. Thanks again :)
 
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