Jacuzzi outdoor spa final conection

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Greg1707

Senior Member
Location
Alexandria, VA
Occupation
Business owner Electrical contractor
I plant to run PVC under ground from disconnect to spa. There is a one inch hole in the side of the spa provided for the wiring. There is no way to access the other side of the inlet without removing parts of the wood siding. What is the suggested wiring method once reaching the spa? Stub in a short piece of PVC and then just run the #8 THHWN conductors unprotected to the control box?
 

tortuga

Code Historian
Location
Oregon
Occupation
Electrical Design
I plant to run PVC under ground from disconnect to spa. There is a one inch hole in the side of the spa provided for the wiring. There is no way to access the other side of the inlet without removing parts of the wood siding. What is the suggested wiring method once reaching the spa? Stub in a short piece of PVC and then just run the #8 THHWN conductors unprotected to the control box?

We always attempt coordination with the spa people and stub up a 1" pvc right where the control box sets prior to spa delivery, then hole saw thru the bottom of the cabinet on delivery.
We then run a short section of liquidtight inside the spa to the control box, often with a LB LR LL or C conduit body as needed at the PVC to liquidtight transition.
They can be kinda tight, the last one we did we had to relocate some kind of little pump to get the 1" liquid tight around to the KO on the control box.
 

Little Bill

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee NEC:2017
Occupation
Semi-Retired Electrician
I've wired tons of hot tubs/spas. Usually if there is a hole provided, there is access all the way to the inside. Sometimes there are holes for other things such as a water hose for draining. That might be what the OP thought was wiring access. With that said, there are lots of tubs with no KO or holes. I just find the best place to enter and hole saw a hole, then run liquid tight through that to the control panel. Sometimes you have to go way out of the way to get to the control box, but usually you can find a path to sneak through.

If it's on a deck, I drill up through the bottom of the deck and the bottom of the tub cabinet. In short, what I'm saying is you might have to drill/cut your own access hole.
 

goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Just to add to what's already been suggested, I generally use non-metallic flex PVC for this type of installation. If it's a long run use std. PVC and then transition to flex at the tub. Also, check the spa panel inside the unit and make sure of the KO hole size is 1". The last few tubs I wired had European style terminations. It takes a bit getting used to but after you push in the wire give it a tug and make sure it's properly seated. Good luck.:thumbsup:
 

FionaZuppa

Senior Member
Location
AZ
Occupation
Part Time Electrician (semi retired, old) - EE retired.
Just as Little Bill said, Liquid Tight Flex Metal right through a hole you make in side of spa. PVC to the flex, flex "whip" to the spa. Make the hole just big enough for the flex, then silicone around it to keep bugs out. Just carefully think out the hole location so that you allow some room for the flex to make it to its final destination w/o kinking, etc.

I say LT rubber coated metal flex if it's above ground spa, hence exposed. I use Liquid Tight Flex NMC if the flex is below grade in a pit and the pit has a cover.
 
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