Kitchen remod in upscale manufactured home

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Mule

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Oklahoma
got a question...Im getting ready to do a kitchen remod in a upscale manufactured home, or a hillbilly would call it a trailer house.

So I will have the panel out of the hole replacing it, and need to pull additional home run circuits down underneath to the kitchen area(10-15ft away). So Im thinking most likely this structure will never be moved, unless its after we all die first as its a really a up scale home. So to protect the sealed underbelly from rodents and to make minimal holes, how would I rund these NM HR's underneath?

Should I run THHN circuits in PVC, and then transittion back to NM, or pull NM inside PVC? use MC? what should I do?

I might be able to go overhead through the trusses, but at the outside wall, DUH, I dont know, thinking it might be too tight and labor intensive...
 
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The most I have seen have had a empty cond. already in the panel. You will probably go over the 24" for a sleeve. So your best option would be to set a box and pull thhn then come off the box with NM-B. Most penetrations through the plastic seal I have seen they taped around them with black duct tape.
 
if the house has a ul label on it, you might be violating the listing by changing the wiring ?

I really dont care obviously, but I am curious....would it violate the ul listing or just void it? and in this case, would a insurance company really care, if the work is done to code?

The most I have seen have had a empty cond. already in the panel. You will probably go over the 24" for a sleeve. So your best option would be to set a box and pull thhn then come off the box with NM-B. Most penetrations through the plastic seal I have seen they taped around them with black duct tape.

In some cases I'll be extending existing 15amp NM circuits, but its a major remod, requiring more HR's....Everything is coming out and the layout is changing quite a bit
 
I really dont care obviously, but I am curious....would it violate the ul listing or just void it? and in this case, would a insurance company really care, if the work is done to code?



In some cases I'll be extending existing 15amp NM circuits, but its a major remod, requiring more HR's....Everything is coming out and the layout is changing quite a bit

If it's a major remodel then ul is out of the window. Big deal. If it is going to be that extensive I would remove wall covering to bottom plate drill through plate and run where ever I needed.
 
So if I run a home run via PVC to each of the four walls, up through the bottom plate and up to a 4square deep combo box with a mud ring for a outlet or a switch, and then back down, out of the box with NMB with apropiate connector, to the plate and then cut the sheet rock horizontaly at the floor, say 6-8 inchs just enough to drill stud to stud to feed other box's does that sound compliant?

as long as I comply with derate and fill in the PVC?
 
So if I run a home run via PVC to each of the four walls, up through the bottom plate and up to a 4square deep combo box with a mud ring for a outlet or a switch, and then back down, out of the box with NMB with apropiate connector, to the plate and then cut the sheet rock horizontaly at the floor, say 6-8 inchs just enough to drill stud to stud to feed other box's does that sound compliant?

as long as I comply with derate and fill in the PVC?

I dont know that I would go that far. If you can drill through the plate under the panel then just run NM-B from panel to where ever you need then come up in the wall to your device boxes. I would not try to run horizontally from box to box. I would go back under and come back up where I needed to. Its no problem to staple the wire since the floor joist are wood. As far as the plastic it is a vapor barrier. You can repair it with tape
 
I dont know that I would go that far. If you can drill through the plate under the panel then just run NM-B from panel to where ever you need then come up in the wall to your device boxes. I would not try to run horizontally from box to box. I would go back under and come back up where I needed to. Its no problem to staple the wire since the floor joist are wood. As far as the plastic it is a vapor barrier. You can repair it with tape

This would be a steel frame with vapor barrier and then joist setting on top of the steel frame. So going under will take a tek screw to fasten what ever wiring means I use down. Trying to fasten NMB under there, I dont know..might look like a drunk sailer did it...That's why I was leaning toward pvc. or perhaps MC at the least.....

Still thinking and listening. ..................:cool:
 
Since you have several home runs to pull, I'd probably be looking into some sort of j-hook or d-ring you can tek screw to the steel frame. They might be a few dollars apiece, which might seem expensive for one hanger, but I think they'd more than make up for it on the labor end of it.

Here's one type that even pounds on to a flange:
http://www.erico.com/products/CableCatEPreAssembled.asp

You'd have to watch for bundling issues with this method but once you had all the hangers fastened, pulling the romex and laying them in the hangers would go fast. When your done, I'd probably just throw a ziptie around the romex and j-hook to secure it. Like said above, I'd probably just horseshoe under the belly of the trailer with the romex rather than cut sheetrock and then use a roll of black duct tape to seal the penetrations.
 
Hey thats a decent idea...Im not sure what the spacing is on the steel members....if its 4.5ft or less...we'd be ok....Then we could tidee it up with tyraps....I just didnt want any thing hanging down and subject to damage and looking bad. I was thinking about black silicone for the penetrations, thought it would last longer than duct tape.
 
If it's a major remodel then ul is out of the window. Big deal. If it is going to be that extensive I would remove wall covering to bottom plate drill through plate and run where ever I needed.
Agreed. Do it like you would in a house with a crawl space.
 
You guys made me go out to the truck for my 2008. :smile:

got a question...Im getting ready to do a kitchen remod in a upscale manufactured home, or a hillbilly would call it a trailer house.

You need to look at Article 550, it covers the wiring in these homes.

how would I run these NM HR's underneath?

You might not, see 550.15(H).

There is no prohibition about adding wiring to these manufactured homes you just have to follow the rules in 550. :smile:
 
You guys made me go out to the truck for my 2008. :smile:



You need to look at Article 550, it covers the wiring in these homes.



You might not, see 550.15(H).

There is no prohibition about adding wiring to these manufactured homes you just have to follow the rules in 550. :smile:

Sorry we made you get up and go to the truck at 5:00am:-?
I think we need more info from Mule. Is it a mfg. home on its own foundation? Is it a modular home, the type that is unloaded with a crane and set on a foundation? Ones I have worked on have permanent foundations and have never had a problem. I have ran exposed ser cable to inside panel strapped to the underside, NM-B from factory installed sleeve from inside panel to air handler and light and recp. I can only assume that the inspectors treat theses homes the same as a stick built house once the axles are removed and a permanent foundation is installed.
 
Sorry we made you get up and go to the truck at 5:00am:-?
I think we need more info from Mule. Is it a mfg. home on its own foundation? Is it a modular home, the type that is unloaded with a crane and set on a foundation? Ones I have worked on have permanent foundations and have never had a problem. I have ran exposed ser cable to inside panel strapped to the underside, NM-B from factory installed sleeve from inside panel to air handler and light and recp. I can only assume that the inspectors treat theses homes the same as a stick built house once the axles are removed and a permanent foundation is installed.

Had'nt had a chance to check code references yet.....but its a double wide trailer, upscale, axles removed, perimiter foundation and slab underneath with decorative concrete panels for skirting.....
 
If they are doing that they are ignoring the NEC. :smile:

I cannot say for sure but from bits and peaces I have been told by owners over the years is that if the home is set on permanent foundation with the moving hardware removed they reclassify it as a regular house. This is done for zoning, tax, insurance and property value. Which in turn takes 550 out of the equation as far as inspections go.
 
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