Kitchen Undercabs

Z

ZachHane

Member
Location
Ma
Occupation
Electrician
Hey everyone, just looking for some advice from people that deal with it a lot more frequently. I know there’s some lighting guru’s out there..

My question is, I’m doing kitchen undercabinet lights. 3 different sections being lit & controlled by 3 individual switches.

In the past I’ve always just controlled 1 dimmable driver to control all the kitchens undercabs. I feel like using 3 individual drivers is very inefficient and I know you guys will enlighten me on a much better way of going about this.


With the way the client wants this setup, I was thinking I could feed a driver, then come off the driver with the 24v and loop each switch together, with the switch leg going to the undercabs. I’m not sure if that’s the best way to do it, and I’m also not sure if there’d be a way for them to be on dimmers (client said no dimmers but planning for worst case in the future).

Any input would be awesome, thank you!
 
I use the UC LED lights that have their own driver. If I'm roughing in for them, I stub out NM cable at each location. Meaning if separated by a sink, or oven, etc. These come with jumpers that you can connect them together with if installing more than one in a single section. They are also color selectable so the customer can choose the light color they like.
They come in different lengths depending on the cabinet size.
I've never had anything but praise for them.
 
Little Bill said:
I use the UC LED lights that have their own driver. If I'm roughing in for them, I stub out NM cable at each location. Meaning if separated by a sink, or oven, etc. These come with jumpers that you can connect them together with if installing more than one in a single section. They are also color selectable so the customer can choose the light color they like.
They come in different lengths depending on the cabinet size.
I've never had anything but praise for them.
Click to expand...
I’ve done the same setup with stubbing out, just with 18/2 for tape light setup. I’m currently doing a different 65 unit job that is actually specing out Halo HU11 LED’s. Is that the style you’re referring to that you’ve used for the line voltage setup?

Thank you
 
James L said:
Here's a dimmer/driver combo

60w or 96w for roughly $200 each

120v feeds, 24v switch legs
Click to expand...
In the past I’ve used that setups just never threw low voltage switches into the mix. I’d imagine if I just added 24v switches, it should be fine. I’m not sure if individual dimming would be an option with that setup. Just don’t want to shoot myself in the foot trying a new approach to this out of the norm for me setup
 
ZachHane said:
In the past I’ve used that setups just never threw low voltage switches into the mix. I’d imagine if I just added 24v switches, it should be fine. I’m not sure if individual dimming would be an option with that setup. Just don’t want to shoot myself in the foot trying a new approach to this out of the norm for me setup
Click to expand...
There are 24v dimmers, but I would be concerned about voltage drop
 
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