Knockout Sizes in Meter Bases

Merry Christmas
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360Youth said:
If you are going to use one of those on a regular basis, than you have got to have one of these. :D Not entirely necessary for an alu. meter can, but we use knockouts on a nearly daily basis and I wouldn't give it up. We have a new guy that went on a first install and asked him if had used knockouts. "Oh, yeah," he said. "Well, not our way," we replied. He likes our way. :wink: Seriously, if you use many knockouts, give it a try. Impact driver and 1" socket and you will never crank again unless you absolutely have to.


I like the one with the hydraulic pump. :grin:
 
ceknight said:
I'd go it one simpler: Just clamp a piece of wood inside the enclosure. The pilot bit will hit it and keep the hole saw where you want it. :)


I have done that too in the past. Sometimes the pilot hole in the wood gets too sloppy and you end up with an oversized KO in the metal, that's why I like to make a jig with the full size hole in the wood.
 
Not to hijack this thread, but has anyone had any luck sharpening their knockouts sets? I have the Greenlee similar to the one pictured and my 1 1/4" and 2" are getting really tough to use. I have been thinking about taking a file to them but am afraid of ruining them.

Jeff
 
ElectricianJeff said:
Not to hijack this thread, but has anyone had any luck sharpening their knockouts sets? I have the Greenlee similar to the one pictured and my 1 1/4" and 2" are getting really tough to use. I have been thinking about taking a file to them but am afraid of ruining them.

Jeff

I'm not sure, but I think you can send them back to Greenlee and have them do it. I have asked several (local) large machine shops that have the ability, but they don't seem to think it can be done.

If you can have it done at Greenlee, I'd be interested to know how much it costs, compared to a new punch/die set.
 
lordofpi said:
A few mentioned step-bits, which -- while usually expensive -- do get major use around my way.

I love my step bit, but I keep it so well hidden that sometimes it's a chore to remember where I put it. :)
 
When you need to enlarge an existing KO, if the hole-saws allow it, mount the existing-size hole-saw inside the new-size one. Now they'll stay in place.
 
360Youth said:
If you are going to use one of those on a regular basis, than you have got to have one of these. :D Not entirely necessary for an alu. meter can, but we use knockouts on a nearly daily basis and I wouldn't give it up. We have a new guy that went on a first install and asked him if had used knockouts. "Oh, yeah," he said. "Well, not our way," we replied. He likes our way. :wink: Seriously, if you use many knockouts, give it a try. Impact driver and 1" socket and you will never crank again unless you absolutely have to.

AAHH grasshopper. Never thought of using an impact. Always drag out the hydraulic pump or the C punch if its less than 7" inside of the can.
 
LarryFine said:
When you need to enlarge an existing KO, if the hole-saws allow it, mount the existing-size hole-saw inside the new-size one. Now they'll stay in place.

Or drill the new hole in a piece of wood and hold it over the smaller or off center hole
 
jrannis said:
Or drill the new hole in a piece of wood and hold it over the smaller or off center hole


Is there an echo in here?:D

infinity said:
You could make a wooden jig to enlarge the hole if you had the proper sized hole saw. Take the hole saw and drill a hole in a piece of wood that's the same width as the meter pan. Clamp the wood to the meter pan with the hole centered over the existing KO. Place the hole saw in the wooden jig hole and drill the new hole at a very slow speed. The wood jig will keep the hole saw in place.
 
480sparky said:
I'm not sure, but I think you can send them back to Greenlee and have them do it. I have asked several (local) large machine shops that have the ability, but they don't seem to think it can be done.

If you can have it done at Greenlee, I'd be interested to know how much it costs, compared to a new punch/die set.

Did anyone find out a cost to resharpen? I talked with a machinist I know and he said on the slug splitter style there would be three setups on a surface grinder or cutter grinder, and given typical hourly rates you could buy a new one cheaper. He also indicated the punches might only be case hardened, if so the sharpening would grind off the hard part making them worthless. He doesn't have either of the appropriate grinders anyway so we couldn't try it out for fun.

Jeremy
 
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