Lamp Posts
- Thread starter frank_n
- Start date
- Status
Dirt merchant
Member
- Location
- Hopewell,New Jersey
I have thought about this before--any thoughts, can this be done by code?
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Yes, as long as your OCP protects the smallest wire.
Dirt merchant
Member
- Location
- Hopewell,New Jersey
Just to be clear, As long as the voltage drop doesn't go below 3% at any given point of a run, it is acceptable to vary the conductor size? I am newly Licensed and am not looking for problems with inspectors. I get it with the OCPD being 20A. Any place in the codebook that would violate this would be nice to see now before I consider to do this. I have looked on my own, but can't find anything.
Dirt merchant
Member
- Location
- Hopewell,New Jersey
I generally only think about this when runs are over 1,000 feet long.
mark32
Senior Member
- Location
- Currently in NJ
Hi Frank, if I read you correctly, the four inch round would be embedded in the post yes? If so, I imagine once the connections are made they'd still be floating in the air between the fixture and the box, not sure what the purpose of the box would be in this case. Am I crazy?
1. Bring the mason some doughnuts/coffee.
2. Before the column footings are poured, trench and install conduit stubbing up appx 42" above grade in the center of the block/brick columns.
3. When the columns are started but not complete (in order to get an ACCURATE measurement), install your jboxes, face up, landing flush with the finished top. (measure up from whatever coarse they are at). Be sure and duct tape your boxes well. Masons love to dump mortar into our conduits.
4.The masons will install the cap layer around your jbox and you can mount your fixtures to the JB or to the column cap.
I generally like to pull wire before everything is backfilled/complete (the just in case factor) but, if there are no hidden issues, it will be easier to pull wire after the columns are set. If you DO pre pull wire, install blank covers on the jb's to keep the wies out of the masons way and to keep mortar out of the components.
If the fixture have a big base with lots of make up room, you could just stub the conduits up, cut them off flush and use the fixture base for wiring/make up. Does code require a jb in this case? I don't know.
2. Before the column footings are poured, trench and install conduit stubbing up appx 42" above grade in the center of the block/brick columns.
3. When the columns are started but not complete (in order to get an ACCURATE measurement), install your jboxes, face up, landing flush with the finished top. (measure up from whatever coarse they are at). Be sure and duct tape your boxes well. Masons love to dump mortar into our conduits.
4.The masons will install the cap layer around your jbox and you can mount your fixtures to the JB or to the column cap.
I generally like to pull wire before everything is backfilled/complete (the just in case factor) but, if there are no hidden issues, it will be easier to pull wire after the columns are set. If you DO pre pull wire, install blank covers on the jb's to keep the wies out of the masons way and to keep mortar out of the components.
If the fixture have a big base with lots of make up room, you could just stub the conduits up, cut them off flush and use the fixture base for wiring/make up. Does code require a jb in this case? I don't know.
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