Latest Advice on AL/CU pigtailing

[AZsparky]

To all those most experienced in pigtailing all devices in a residence from AL devices to copper. This home was built in 1973-1974 in Phoenix, AZ.

I have read all the older posts I have found (2003- 2005 mostly) and there seems to be quite a difference of opinion on this topic. Except maybe to just steer clear of this type of service work.

But what is the experience of those who have utilized a lot of the IDEAL twister 65's? One problem I see with them is their physical size and getting all the pigtails to fit back into the boxes. Has anyone had any problems with these other than those because of incorrect install techniques? Is there anything else listed for an AL/CU splice that is a better fix now? What is the best recommended procedure if the 65's are utilized? Re-strip and twist

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I have done a lot of research on the Web, but I value this forum's opinions and views far more than anything available in general cyberspace, especially old biased stuff from AMP.


Thanks to all who may respond.

 

[mdshunk]

I own a Copalum crimper outright and had a source for the sleeves until a couple years ago. That was my method for a long time, and it was regarded as the best method by pretty much everyone. Since I had a bootleg crimper and my source of sleeves dried up, I've changed to the AlumiConn connector. This connector, although about the same size as the 65, seems to pack nicer in the box. The only drawback is that you need to buy a torque screwdriver to use this connector. If the stripped end of the wire you put in the connector is not dead flat and straight, you can also get a bogus torque reading, so you've gotta keep your head in the game.

 

[AZsparky]

Thanks Marc:
This AlumiConn connector seems to have alot going for it; with the UL listing seeming to be flat, and therefore an easier fit into the box and less heat generation. I will need to get a torque screwdriver to comply with the UL listing for the installation as you stated. But I love to get new tools, so I can live with that. I really appreciate your feedback.

Bob........

 

[don_resqcapt19]

There may not be an issue with small conductor aluminum installed in that time frame. The new alloy aluminum came into the market around that time. At least it did for single conductor #12 and #10. That product when used with CO/ALR devices and CU/AL wire nuts has no more problems than a copper installation...assuming that you keep it dry.

 

[JohnJ0906]

There may not be an issue with small conductor aluminum installed in that time frame. The new alloy aluminum came into the market around that time. At least it did for single conductor #12 and #10.

Don, is there a way to tell the difference between the alloy used? A labeling on the cable sheath or conductor?

 

[mxslick]

I have a few samples of the AlumiConn connector, but since I don't encounter any resi work anymore (or haven't seen any aluminum branch circuits either) they are probably going to eventually be used for a copper-to-copper connection somewhere.

They look to be very well made, and if they weren't as pricey (they're not bad really, but more expensive than Wagos) I would use them on all my installs. I like the set-screw connection idea and the space savings.

 

[Buck Parrish]

To all those most experienced in pigtailing all devices in a residence from AL devices to copper.

When changing all devices in a house.
I have pigtailed a pice of copper wire to the AL then to the device.
But I found it much easier to buy outlets or switches that are rated for Aluminum terminations.

 

[1793]

When changing all devices in a house...
But I found it much easier to buy outlets or switches that are rated for Aluminum terminations.

This is the way I have attacked this issue.

 

[AZsparky]

When changing all devices in a house.
I have pigtailed a pice of copper wire to the AL then to the device.
But I found it much easier to buy outlets or switches that are rated for Aluminum terminations.

The buyer of this property is requesting of the seller that Seller "Replace/Fix any/all electrical outlets and switches from Aluminum 110 volt to copper 110 volt. Done by licensed electrician. Receipt provided to buyers."

 

[76nemo]

To me, that sounds like a tear out all the way back to the panel.

 

[AZsparky]

To me, that sounds like a tear out all the way back to the panel.

Well that would be a deal buster. I don't think that is what the potential buyer has in mind. Unless it is an investor looking to steal the house.

 

[mdshunk]

The buyer of this property is requesting of the seller that Seller "Replace/Fix any/all electrical outlets and switches from Aluminum 110 volt to copper 110 volt. Done by licensed electrician. Receipt provided to buyers."

Since 110 volt doesn't exist for the most part, no action is required.

 

[AZsparky]

Yes. I should quote the forum on that and save the sellers a few grand.

 

[peter d]

Since 110 volt doesn't exist for the most part, no action is required.

What about those hot summer days when the poco supplied voltage drops to 110? Then you would be required to do the work.

 

[AZsparky]

The POCO not supplying the correct voltage? Please don't blaspheme on this forum!

 

[don_resqcapt19]

Don, is there a way to tell the difference between the alloy used? A labeling on the cable sheath or conductor?

I am sure there must be some way to tell, but I don't know what it is.

 

[brantmacga]

I am sure there must be some way to tell, but I don't know what it is.

i have no experience w/ small gauge aluminum cables, but is the type printed on the jacket? it was called "series 8000" or something like that, i think.

 

[wireguru]

i was just looking at the copalum stuff. $750 for training / certification. how much is the tool lease and how much are the sleeves?

 

[quogueelectric]

I own a Copalum crimper outright and had a source for the sleeves until a couple years ago. That was my method for a long time, and it was regarded as the best method by pretty much everyone. Since I had a bootleg crimper and my source of sleeves dried up, I've changed to the AlumiConn connector. This connector, although about the same size as the 65, seems to pack nicer in the box. The only drawback is that you need to buy a torque screwdriver to use this connector. If the stripped end of the wire you put in the connector is not dead flat and straight, you can also get a bogus torque reading, so you've gotta keep your head in the game.

That is a tough one being that UT does not sell them they only rent them.

 

[mdshunk]

That is a tough one being that UT does not sell them they only rent them.

I used to work for AMP.