LED strip Uplight

[JoeNorm]

Clients are remodeling an older garage/small barn structure into a mixed use open work area/party space. It has a vaulted ceiling with exposed trusses every six feet or so. The truss has a horizontal member. I proposed running high output LED strip on the top of each horizontal piece to illuminate the white ceiling.

I know this can achieve an accent light but I am wondering if I can get useful light this way. My thought is if I use enough strip lights I might be able to. Has anyone ever done anything similar? I have not so I am just crossing my fingers it works and they will like the result. I have not bought anything yet. I got a quote from my supplier who works with a custom LED shop and they were wildly expensive so I will look at ordering online. Any quality brands to look at?

Thanks

 

[LarryFine]

How wide are the trusses? Are they 2-bys (1.5" thick) or wider beams?

I'm thinking upside-down strip light fixtures rather than ribbon, depending on the room.

 

[James L]

I know this can achieve an accent light but I am wondering if I can get useful light this way. My thought is if I use enough strip lights I might be able to. Has anyone ever done anything similar?

Yes.
I wire screened porches that are built like what you're talking about, and it can be done different ways with 24v lighting

1) shelf lighting along both walls that the trusses sit on. It's pretty easy to stub out a cable where the trusses meet the walls, then carpenter can build trays for lighting strip to lay in (I use an aluminum channel to prefab fixtures, then connect in tray

2) on top of the horizontal pieces as you have described. You may or may not want an aluminum channel on top of that truss, don't know if it would be visible. If not, use a waterproof strip to keep it from getting too dusty.

3) also on top of the horizontal truss member, down at the base of the truss, a spot light aimed upward

Need to find a place to install 24v driver(s), and run a seperate 16- or 18-gauge cable for each strip section or spot light. No sharing because voltage drop can get you and have your lights at different brightnesses

I use a strip that puts out about 400 lumens per foot, but it's not available anymore. I got a really great deal on a leftover lot after a large commercial job.

Not saying you should use this product, but you could look at it just to see some specs you might consider (watts, lumens, kelvin, etc)

https://www.amazon.com/JOYLIT-SMD2835-Flexible-Natural-Waterproof/dp/B07FCSHKLV/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3PUAH49BH7XVZ&keywords=UL%2B24v%2Bled%2Bstrip&qid=1697864667&sprefix=ul%2B24v%2Bled%2Bstrip%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-8&th=1

 

[JoeNorm]

I was looking at Aspect LED because it's one of the first to come up in a search. They have a couple options over 400 Lumens per foot. Their extra bright has 72 LED's per foot! They also have a COB version that eliminates the dots.

I'm not totally new to LED strip, just never used it in this particular application.

 

[Kansas Mountain]

I would caution against using LED tape as an indirect light source if it is also going to be the ambient light source for the space, especially a potential work space where you'll want a minimum of 30 fc at the work plane. I typically aim for about a 50 fc average at work plane for classrooms and office spaces. When done correctly, indirect lighting as the only ambient source can be great in terms of aesthetics and visual comfort for the occupants, but it is horribly inefficient. You would likely need several side-by-side runs of high output tape per beam.

I agree with Larry, actual strip fixtures would likely be more cost effective and maintainable.

If you do need an extrusion that can accommodate multiple runs of tape, check out some low profile options like the TRIADA from KLUS. Even if you don't go with a commercial or spec grade product, they have a pretty robust offering of IES files for their tapes and tape-extrusion combos so your supply house can run a calc and at least let you know where you would need to be in terms of lumens per foot.

 

[JoeNorm]

I'm beginning to have second thoughts on the tape idea. One reason being this was an afterthought so the drivers would have to be exposed and with the output necessary they will be pretty big. I have 14-2 switch legs at the bottom of each truss because the original plan was track on each truss but I talked them out of that because I thought it would look terrible and would cause the ceiling to feel empty and dark.

I'd prefer a 120v strip but it'd be visible. There is a 1.5" gap in the middle of the truss. If I found a strip that fit in the gap I could recess it inside which could be cool.

 

[James L]

You would likely need several side-by-side runs of high output tape per beam.

If an LED strip (ribbon, tape) is 400-600 lumens per foot, how is that any different than a 4-ft strip light that puts out 1800 or so lumens?

I agree with Larry, actual strip fixtures would likely be more cost effective

But what's it gonna look like on top of a truss?
Those things are at least 3 inches thick.

They're also in "per foot" dimensions, whereas tape light in a channel can be cut to the inch

and maintainable.

If tape is used, there's nothing to maintain except a driver that can be placed in a location much easier to get to than up on a beam

 

[tank728]

If tape is used, there's nothing to maintain except a driver that can be placed in a location much easier to get to than up on a beam

The tape does go bad also. And not just after like 50000 hours

 

[LarryFine]

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[LarryFine]

I'm beginning to have second thoughts on the tape idea. One reason being this was an afterthought so the drivers would have to be exposed and with the output necessary they will be pretty big. I have 14-2 switch legs at the bottom of each truss because the original plan was track on each truss but I talked them out of that because I thought it would look terrible and would cause the ceiling to feel empty and dark.

Can you put the drivers at the other end of the 14-2s, perhaps in a closet?

 

[JoeNorm]

Can you put the drivers at the other end of the 14-2s, perhaps in a closet?

Unfortunately no

 

[LarryFine]

Unfortunately no

Attic space above or crawl space below? In the wall in a cabinet or behind an access panel?

I added LED under-cabinet lighting at my friend's house, and put the drivers in the basement ceiling.

Really making guesses without seeing the place, of course.

 

[James L]

Unfortunately no

How long are the trusses?

Does each truss have a wire stubbed at each end?

How wide is the wood?

 

[James L]

The tape does go bad also. And not just after like 50000 hours

I'm aware that nothing lasts forever, but the drivers tend to go kaput before the strips.

But it's a moot point here, because he's said he can't do remote driver(s)

 

[JoeNorm]

The trusses are two 2x pieces sandwiching 2x diagonal supports that form the truss. So the whole truss is 4.5" wide and has a hollow 1.5" a lot of the way besides where some diagonal support pieces enter.

I originally wired for track(homeowner asked for it) so there is 120v wiring at one end of each truss. The homeowner and I both agreed track was going to look really busy.

There is no attic. Underneath the floor is sort of accessible but open to the earth. It's an old barn type outbuilding built many years ago.

I didn't realize how substantial the drivers would have to be for the LED strip. 150W drivers are not small and would have to get mounted visibly at the beginning of each truss. Maybe there is a lower profile version to find.

 

[James L]

How long are your trusses?

You really need 150w drivers?
A high output ribbon can be as little as 3 or 4 watts per foot. Surely you don't have 40-foot trusses?

 

[winnie]

I didn't realize how substantial the drivers would have to be for the LED strip. 150W drivers are not small and would have to get mounted visibly at the beginning of each truss. Maybe there is a lower profile version to find.

Could the drivers be placed in the gap between the outer 2x members?

 

[Kansas Mountain]

If an LED strip (ribbon, tape) is 400-600 lumens per foot, how is that any different than a 4-ft strip light that puts out 1800 or so lumens?



But what's it gonna look like on top of a truss?
Those things are at least 3 inches thick.

They're also in "per foot" dimensions, whereas tape light in a channel can be cut to the inch


If tape is used, there's nothing to maintain except a driver that can be placed in a location much easier to get to than up on a beam

• I would be trying to use 4' or strips with about 5,000 or 6,000 lumen output (10,000ish if using 8'), spaced as needed, not running continuous.
• Yes, if being low profile and out of sight from occupant view below is critical, then strips are not as feasible of a solution.
• As mentioned by others, tape can fail too. I agree with you that the overwhelming majority of failures are the drivers. But tape failure is a much more prevalent problem when using the kinds of tape from Walmart, Amazon, etc.

 

[Kansas Mountain]

I didn't realize how substantial the drivers would have to be for the LED strip. 150W drivers are not small and would have to get mounted visibly at the beginning of each truss. Maybe there is a lower profile version to find.

Have you considered line voltage tape? LEDI LINE VOLTAGE TAPE

 

[LarryFine]

Have you considered line voltage tape? LEDI LINE VOLTAGE TAPE

Neat. I noticed a few things that might matter here, as each truss would require multiple custom lengths with tape-to-tape connections around (or through) the truss chords:

This product is not field cuttable. Cutting or modifying this product voids the ETL Listing and voids the warranty. All cuts or modifications must be made by the manufacturer in an ETL Listed facility following specific guidelines provided by ETL.

Hardwire Connector: Available in 2ft and 6ft lengths
Standard U.S. Wall Plug: Available in a 6ft length