Lets play spot the defect

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kwired said:
I think he wasn't asking about drip loop near the service drop attachment but rather a drip loop right before it enters the building. I think there is such a requirement for single conductors entering through insulating sleeves, and/or that they must enter at an upward angle, but that doesn't apply to raceway or cables just open wiring, which is pretty rare anymore anyway.
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That makes more sense. The graphic doesn't show such cable.
 
Carultch said:
I think the way this works is that it is OK for a tapered male thread in either a straight female thread or a tapered female thread, but once you have a straight male thread, it cannot be used in any kind of female thread unless the combination is listed otherwise.
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Can you support that with a statement from a testing/standards agency or manufacturer? I have never seen such a statement.
 
kwired said:
I think he wasn't asking about drip loop near the service drop attachment but rather a drip loop right before it enters the building. I think there is such a requirement for single conductors entering through insulating sleeves, and/or that they must enter at an upward angle, but that doesn't apply to raceway or cables just open wiring, which is pretty rare anymore anyway.
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Yes, sorry if that wasn't clear. If it's not required, I don't understand why not. Whatever you seal the hole with is going to shrink/crack/chip/peel/whatever over time. If the wire/cable assembly doesn't prevent water from running down to the point of entry, you will get water to the interior.
 
gadfly56 said:
Yes, sorry if that wasn't clear. If it's not required, I don't understand why not. Whatever you seal the hole with is going to shrink/crack/chip/peel/whatever over time. If the wire/cable assembly doesn't prevent water from running down to the point of entry, you will get water to the interior.
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Is there not a similar risk with a raceway dropping down the wall then LB entering the wall?
 
kwired said:
Is there not a similar risk with a raceway dropping down the wall then LB entering the wall?
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Absolutely. It is arguably "less bad", but still a risk. However, let's not make perfect the enemy of the good.
 
A drip loop may keep water out of a weather head as it's intended, but it's not going to keep water out on this type of installation.

JAP>
 
jap said:
A drip loop may keep water out of a weather head as it's intended, but it's not going to keep water out on this type of installation.

JAP>
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Are you referring to the top at the weather head or at the bottom where the cable penetrates the siding?
 
Has anyone ever gotten red tagged for that install. I see thousands of overhead risers with pvc connectors. I have not heard of anyone getting called on it and I have never seen an issue with water leaking with these installs.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
Has anyone ever gotten red tagged for that install. I see thousands of overhead risers with pvc connectors. I have not heard of anyone getting called on it and I have never seen an issue with water leaking with these installs.
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I haven't, and even if they do leak a little, which I'm sure they may, It's not something high on my list of things to worry about.

Water will tend to find a way in one way or another if it wants to regardless of whether a drip loop is installed in a cable prior to it penetrating an outside wall.

JAP>
 
More water usually gets in via condensation then what leaks through fittings, which is why it was stupid when they thought they needed to improve compression fittings to make them "raintight"

I might be more understanding if it is a bonding issue when it comes to straight vs tapered thread, but how water tight they may actually be is not really a problem IMO.
 
gadfly56 said:
Yes, sorry if that wasn't clear. If it's not required, I don't understand why not. Whatever you seal the hole with is going to shrink/crack/chip/peel/whatever over time. If the wire/cable assembly doesn't prevent water from running down to the point of entry, you will get water to the interior.
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Here, the SE cable from the POCO connection/stand-off at the top of the rakeboard comes down and transitions under a soffit. The only water that could run down is the 5' or so from where the SE cable turns from horizontal to vertical to go into the meter box. Something akin to glazing compound is used to seal it, and works pretty well considering 50+ year old meters aren't bursting into flames every day from high resistance connections caused by corrosion.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
Has anyone ever gotten red tagged for that install. I see thousands of overhead risers with pvc connectors. I have not heard of anyone getting called on it and I have never seen an issue with water leaking with these installs.
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Never cited around here. I learned a little trick (never to old, right?) from an electrician the other day. Sometimes the pvc connector won't completely thread into the hub, right? He always cuts about half of the threads off so it makes up all the way.
 
GerryB said:
Never cited around here. I learned a little trick (never to old, right?) from an electrician the other day. Sometimes the pvc connector won't completely thread into the hub, right? He always cuts about half of the threads off so it makes up all the way.
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That works out that way because the hub has tapered thread and the connector has straight thread and gets tighter the further it is threaded in. PVC TA may have slight taper at the end but is not necessarily standard NPT taper.
 
When I do residential...

When I do residential...

delfadelfa said:
You are the WINNER!!!

And they did not separate the grounds and neutrals in the sub panel they installed right on the other side of the wall in the basement. Why put the main outside? They could of just used a main breaker panel...
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Our AHJ only accepts cable services if after a tornado and in the spirit of keeping costs down (our power company is responsible for storm damaged services if something hitting their property caused damage to your property), if it is undamaged and existing.

I use feed through main breaker panels on residential jobs. Gives outside spaces for ease of access (CU's, PU's, Out buildings), then to MLO on the inside, unless someone asks for another whole panel breaker, then I just add ground bars...
 
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