LIght switches getting hot

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Re: LIght switches getting hot

Originally posted by jbwhite:
Testing from line side of sw to load side of sw with sw off or removed will only tell you if the problem is from the source or not. it will not narrrow down what component is causing the problem.
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Well, we will have to agree to disagree. I should add that removing the switch is not necessary to troubleshoot, but a dimmer should be removed.

It all boils down to what you were taught. All methods are fine as long as they produce quick results. However, some methods are more efficient than the other. I was taught to start in the middle of the circuit, otherwise know as "Divide and Conquer." That way, you are immediately dividing into two parts where the trouble could be.

Furthemore, taking measurements at a switch is very convenient and much easier than opening panels, junction boxes, etc. With a few quick measurements at the switch I can determine whether or not I need to go forward and look at the light fixture, or backward and look at the source.
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

I would even go so far as to say that a DVM doesn't even belong in an electricians tool bag. They can get even experienced old timers like myself in trouble, though it really was because of lazyness rather than ignorance in my case recently.

In my own house I have a two lamp 48" industrial fixture in my boiler room. I go to turn the light on from it's wall switch one day and nothing happens. I swap the lamps from another fixture and still nothing. So, I remove the reflector and disconnect the supply conductors. Since I am right next to my work area I grab my Fluke DVM. Hmmm, 120 volts, must be the ballast. I get a new fixture and it works fine- for a day. Ahh, has to be the lamps also. I get new lamps, still no good.

Now it dawns on me. It's the switch and I would have found it about $60 ago if I had gone out to the truck and got my wiggy instead of using that damn Fluke.

Replaced the switch and took the old one apart. Sure enough, burned contacts. The resistance was high enough to keep the fixture from working but the high impedance of the meter allowed it to read 120 volts through the burned contacts.

Duhhh!

-Hal
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

i have this hammer. i have been trying to hammer nails with it. everytime i try, i miss the nail completly and get two wedge shape marks in the wood, or the nail gets stuck between the two prongs from the hammer.

do i need a new hammer, or do i need to learn how to use the other side of the hammer for pounding.

maybe i need different hammers for different purposes.

I have seen a wiggie give full voltage where only one strand of a wire was barely left in tact. but the circuit would not work under load. that is why i carry several meters on my truck, and use different ones depending on what i am trying to test.
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

LOL! :D

You're right.

Each tool has its strength.
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

I think you guys are jumping the gun. you all have a lot of TS experience. and assume the basics are covered. from beachbums post, I have not read that he has nailed down if the 96 volts are before the switch or at the light. it should not be that hard. it is input voltage, dimmer,line to light, or the track light. assuming that the power to the house is good 96 volts would indicate that the power is passing through a restore of some kind. IE bad dimmer, a lot of wire from sorce , a high resistance short, or in series through another circit
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

each tool has its strenght, and they are all useless if you dont know how to use them.
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

I still keep an analog Amprobe (amp/volt) meter in my arsenal as well as a wiggy.

An analog type meter can be bought for cheap ($20.00 or less probably) and is worth its weight in gold for trouble shooting.

Roger
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

I keep lots of tools on my truck, including several different types of meters, and several types of temperature meters, and different tracers. along with a list of hand tools.

each has its purpose, and none is any good if you dont know how to use it.

IMHO the OP does not know how to use his meters.

trying to help, over the internet, troubleshoot an install in this situation, in my opinion is a waste.
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

Originally posted by jbwhite:
I keep lots of tools on my truck, including several different types of meters, and several types of temperature meters, and different tracers. along with a list of hand tools.

each has its purpose, and none is any good if you dont know how to use it.

IMHO the OP does not know how to use his meters.

trying to help, over the internet, troubleshoot an install in this situation, in my opinion is a waste.
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You are right JB, I am inexperienced with a voltmeter. As you said, when you test in series, your reading is off. I was getting a bad reading. But I did also have loose connections in the lighting throughing the reading off a little.
I know I may lack experience, but I make sure all my work is safe and too code, just I often learn from my own mistakes during TS. I'm sure most of you learned along the way as well.
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

So...is it now working correctly? Also, I'm curious about how much load is on the track vs. the wattage of the dimmer(s).
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

300 Watts is a somewhat uncommon size except in low voltage dimmers capable of dimming magnetic or electronic transformers.

Are the lamps 120 Volt, or low voltage?
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

Originally posted by al hildenbrand:
300 Watts is a somewhat uncommon size except in low voltage dimmers capable of dimming magnetic or electronic transformers.

Are the lamps 120 Volt, or low voltage?
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already stated open porcelin type utility fixture in a closet ;)
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

Allen,

The dimmers control the Track fixtures, right?
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

Different lights. Switches I was having problems with controlled track lights.
Fixture in closet had no problem with switch.
Track lights were low volt lights, 12v, 50w

Everything works properly now, and yes I did remember to derate for the dimmers. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
 
Re: LIght switches getting hot

Please note that the standard wall dimmers you see in houses do not actually lower the voltage, or limit the current, they work by changing the frequency of the current.

The track lights, correct me if I am wrong, are halogen type, with a transformer base right? Well trying to use a SCR to modify the frequency on an inductive load (like a transformer) will cause the SCR to burn out. The issue with the dead wall dimmer is in the fact that you tried to dim a transformer, which would be fine if you were actually lowering the input voltage of the transformer with a rheostat, but because you were using a SCR type wall dimmer you fried the electronics. Also, dimmers like that, if you look at them, have aluminum "wings" to disperse the heat into the faceplate. They are designed to radiate heat out into the room, not into the box so having a crowded box should not cause the dimmer any issue. It is normal for these dimmers to get warm however.
 
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