Lights stay dim with inductive load, not with resistive load

rlane00

Member
Location
Clackamas, OR
Occupation
Electrical Contractor, Supervising Electrician, Electrical Engineer
A house we wired has some of the lights dim when the homeowner runs the vacuum cleaner (or a hole hawg), but not when a slighter greater resistive load from a heat blanket is applied. We are trying to figure out why that is happening so that we can remedy the situation and would appreciate any advice.

Here is some additional information about the situation:
- The house has a 320-a continuous meter-base feeding two main-breaker panels. One panel feeds a sub-panel dedicated to high-end audio equipment.
- There is a whole house generator backing up both main panels with two transfer switches.
- There is a variety of lighting in the house, including integrated LED ceiling cans, wall-mounted library sconce lights, vanity lights, LED pucks, etc.
- The house has a lot of Lutron Caseta dimmers w/o neutral (PD-6WCL), but we removed those as part of troubleshooting and the issue persists - so they don't appear to be a factor.
- All lights and dimmers work fine all of the time... as long as the vacuum cleaner (or similar device such as whole hawg) is not running. When the vacuum is plugged into a receptacle that also has lights on the same circuit, then some of the lights dim considerably, and stay dim the whole time the vacuum is running (not just due to inrush). The lights that dim are generally wall-mounted sconces with screw-in LED bulbs), while other lights on the same circuits (such as the LED can lights) operate normally.
- We measured voltage at both main panel(s) at 122 volts.
- We measured voltage at the switch location at 121 volts (without any load)
- After turning on the lights (with regular switch, not dimmer) and plugging in the vacuum, voltage initially dipped to 104V (current of 17.8 amps), then recovered to 110 v (current of 8.8 amps) -- and only the wall sconce lights dimmed and stay dimmed while vacuum ran.
- After turning on the lights (with regular switch, not dimmer) and plugging in the heat blanket, voltage dipped to 102.4V -- and all the lights operated normally while vacuum ran.
- Since the problem appeared to be related to just fixtures with screw-in LED bulbs (but not every fixture with screw-in bulbs), we tried a few other bulb types (CFL, incandescent, a couple of different LEDs). They all had the same problem.
- We then used a table lamp with screw-in bulb to try in different parts of the house to see if that fixture dimmed with the vacuum running or not. The results were:
- The table lamp dimmed (when vac was running) when plugged into a variety circuits from both main panels, both A and B phases, including the circuits that experienced the dimming fixtures.
- The table lamp did NOT dim (when vac was running) when plugged into other circuits from both main panels, both A and B phases.
- The utility has apparently investigated their side of things and said everything is fine on their end - no loose neutrals or anything like that.

We are planning to go back and do the following additional steps:
- Bypass all the in-house wiring and temporarily provide power (via extension cord) to one of the fixtures that dims and see what happens when we run only the vac and that one fixture. If the fixture dims, then we should be able to rule out issues with any house wiring. If fixture doesn't dim, use that temp cord to feed power to devices earlier in the circuit to see if we can isolate the section causing the problem.
- Also bring a keyless with us and replace one of the fixtures that dims with the keyless to see if they all dim, or if the keyless doesn't.

Any other ideas or suggestions? Thanks!
 
Led lights can be very finicky. My bathroom lights can be turned off and if you shut the exhaust fan off last they will flash back on for just a second because of the back EMF from the motor on the exhaust fan.

Have you tried different lights in its place.

Sorry didn’t read whole story. Will later when have time.
 
Thanks for the initial thoughts, especially trying the non-dimmable LED bulbs. Unfortunately, the homeowner wants these lights on dimmers, but at least it would provide us with more data.

We'll be trying some different lights (like a keyless) to see if that makes a difference.
 
There is a big difference in an inductive/resistive load. Inductive loads have a larger inrush current where a resistive load doesn't.
The inrush current occurs until the back EMF opposes it. The inrush can be several times the operating current.
Might be able to find a spot on the other side of the buss.
 
Your in a big house with a 320 meter.
Voltage is 120 but drops to 110 when a motor is on it. That's 110/120=.92. Am I wrong? Thats 8% voltage drop?
My guess is you have long runs of 14 awg in a large house feeding lights and receptacles. It would have been better to run 12 awg to a central junction box, then step down to 14 to go to devices. And to keep the power separate from the lights.

I think your going to have a hard time fixing the issues.
 
Led lights can be very finicky. My bathroom lights can be turned off and if you shut the exhaust fan off last they will flash back on for just a second because of the back EMF from the motor on the exhaust fan.

Have you tried different lights in its place.

Sorry didn’t read whole story. Will later when have time.
I use items from RK Electronics just for that issue. My bath fan would trip the GFCI in that room when shut off.
Another was a customer's ceiling fan that would blink the LEDs as it was shut off.
 
I use items from RK Electronics just for that issue. My bath fan would trip the GFCI in that room when shut off.
Another was a customer's ceiling fan that would blink the LEDs as it was shut off.
Yeah I could see how it would get on peoples nerves. Only time I ever notice is if I’m in bed and still awake while my wife is still up
 
I run 14 to lights and keep them as lights. I run 12 to plugs. I have run home run of 12 to a central box and branched out in 14 for plugs. You just need to keep track what is what in the panel so you don't put the wire on a 20A breakers. Best to label the home run as 15 amp only.
It will take your guys longer to make up boxes with 12 so you have to consider that.

I also toss wago in lights. I hard wire. I have been called back to fix a light that is out and its a PITA to pull the interior out of the can to access the box to find the wire did not snug well in the wago. I would be ok if it were a clamping wago. The kind you put the wire in and press a clamp onto the wire. I don't ever stab in the back of plugs or switches either. I twist the wire end and put it around the screw. I never have issues.
 
Voltage is 120 but drops to 110 when a motor is on it. That's 110/120=.92. Am I wrong? Thats 8% voltage drop?
14/2 on 15A load test may get 8% VD at first opening home runs, and listed equipment tested per UL work fine on 110vac.

Wiring lights w/ #12 home runs may solve some LED issues, but if halogen-test lamps work fine, such LED’s should be returned to suppliers.
 
14/2 on 15A load test may get 8% VD at first opening home runs, and listed equipment tested per UL work fine on 110vac.

Wiring lights w/ #12 home runs may solve some LED issues, but if halogen-test lamps work fine, such LED’s should be returned to suppliers.
Well, how long are the runs? Do a voltage drop calculation. If the calculation determines more than 5%, I would say its miss wired. Voltage drop isn't just for motor loads, feeders and service wires.

Oddly I use to have the opposit problem with LED. They would stay on when shut off by a dimmer.

I don't disagree a lot of LED bulbs are horrible. I don't know how to determine what is good. I find much electrical equipment is a race to the bottom. As much junk as possible for the lowest price. Quality has been abandoned for speed and price. You only get 2 out of 3.

What are some model of dimmable LED bulbs you believe are high quality and don't have issue the normal Home Depot crap does.
 
There are LED fixtures that list compatible dimmers.
I am not saying bulb manufacture don't list compatible dimmers.. For the most part they work. But I see issues with them all the time. Flickering is one. I have been called to trouble shoot jobs and a couple times I have seen 2 different types of lights on 1 dimmer. One of the lights will flicker or pulse in intensity when the lights are asked to dim. They are fine on full power. The only answer is to use the exact same bulb. But it may be a can and a wall scone on the same dimmer. Architects draw what they like. Not what is best.
 
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