I've had an individual approach me about wiring some log cabins. I've never been involved in a log cabin build, but could see it quickly becoming a headache if the builder is in a rush. These are going to be slab on grade probably no more than 1,000 sq ft a piece. Just wondering if anyone had any pointers on how to run wire. From the little bit of research I've done it seems like lots of notching in the sill plate and then drilling through each course till you get where your going. I saw someone mention if the logs are being chinked they would just run wires between the logs and then the wires get covered with the chinking. Is that legitimate? My first thought was running PVC through the slab and stubbing up into the walls and having them set the courses over the conduit. I havnt seen anyone trying anything like that and i suppose getting the boxes in may turn into a nightmare. No matter how you shake it down it seems like some solid planning will definitely result in less frustration and a better finished project. Any suggestions are appreciated!
log homes
- Thread starter nick h
- Start date
- Status
PaulMmn
Senior Member
- Location
- Union, KY, USA
- Occupation
- EIT - Engineer in Training, Lafayette College
I've read a little about log cabins-- the logs are usually not 'kiln dried,' so they shrink. All intrusions (ie doors, windows, etc.) have to allow for the walls to settle around them. This Old House (or was it Home Time) did a log cabin once upon a time and they also dealt with wiring and plumbing, but I don't remember the details.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
I did one but it was about 20 years ago.
We drilled holes (make sure they are large as they won't always line up perfectly) in each course so we could fish cables in later.
We then drilled, chiseled, etc. a place for the box in the courses that get a box. Also made up a jig so we could use a router to make a flat spot on that log as device boxes and covers just don't go into a round surface well at all. Looked like someone knew what they were doing when it was all finished. Inspector said he usually sees wiremold run in log homes, doesn't look nearly as nice.
That seems to be how alot of people are doing it now. I was kind of considering surface mounted EMT, it seems like some people are kind of into that look lately. Do you remember what kind of boxes you used, and if you mounted them horizontally or vertically? thanks for the input. I like the router for the flat finish idea.
- Location
- Tennessee NEC:2017
- Occupation
- Semi-Retired Electrician
Many log home builders will work with you, usually by drilling holes for you as they stack the logs. Some will even pull the wire up as they go if you leave the wire. But this is usually over a basement or crawl space.
The best thing to do is to contact the builder and ask them what they will do or tell you what you can do for prep.
Plunge router with jig for the boxes or chainsaw if you're good at it. Router with jig for the plates if the logs are round.
The best thing to do is to contact the builder and ask them what they will do or tell you what you can do for prep.
Plunge router with jig for the boxes or chainsaw if you're good at it. Router with jig for the plates if the logs are round.
romex jockey
Senior Member
- Location
- Vermont
- Occupation
- electrician
I've wired a ton of log homes here.
As it's expected to be all wet location until the roof is on....
My method is 3/4" ENT flex to plastic boxes with 3/4" KO's>
the flex can 'sleeve' rx, or be made to JB's
some UF is used between 1st/2nd flr timbers , to make to lighting outlets
~RJ~
As it's expected to be all wet location until the roof is on....
My method is 3/4" ENT flex to plastic boxes with 3/4" KO's>
the flex can 'sleeve' rx, or be made to JB's
some UF is used between 1st/2nd flr timbers , to make to lighting outlets
~RJ~
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
I used metal boxes with plaster ears. But I like RJ's post with those Arlington "one boxes". those didn't exist yet when I did that house though.
Boxes were vertical on my installation.
growler
Senior Member
- Location
- Atlanta,GA
I would talk to the individual that approached you and see what they want. Are they going to sell these as homes or rental cabins. What all are they going to try and put in these small cabins?
Your idea of using EMT might work under the right conditions. I saw some old apartments that were redone using EMT surface mounted and painted black that didn't look bad a all. They were kind of going for that "loft" look and being cheap at the same time.
bkludecke
Senior Member
- Location
- Big Bear Lake, CA
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
We have wired hundreds of log homes and businesses over the years. The GC or builder can make it very easy or very difficult. As others have mentioned you need to be adaptable and creative to make it all come out right. Sharp bits, extensions, and a lot of pre-planning in the layout. We use NM boxes of various sizes and types usually. As for running cable in the spaces before the chinking goes in; if you do that it is best to use type UF cable rather than type NMB because of some of the chemicals in the certain chinking formulas. To get it right and make money you will need to have quite a bit more labor figured into the price.
I've wired a ton of log homes here.
As it's expected to be all wet location until the roof is on....
My method is 3/4" ENT flex to plastic boxes with 3/4" KO's>
the flex can 'sleeve' rx, or be made to JB's
some UF is used between 1st/2nd flr timbers , to make to lighting outlets
~RJ~
Smurf tube never crossed my mind but would probably work great for the application. When you say RX do you mean romex? I've only pulled data cables through ENT I can imagine pulling romex through it being difficult but I've never tried. I would think THHN would go pretty smooth. That arlington box looks like it would work perfect.
Thanks for your input everyone this has been very helpful!
- Status