Low Voltage Lighting

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resistance

resistance

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Does any one have any recommendations (manufactures) on low voltage lighting (recess cans and under cab) kits. 1. Load= 800 watts 2. load 600 watts. 3. Load below 200 watts

Also looking for recommendations on Low voltage door jam switches (i've tried three of my suppliers, and they've never heard of them, nor have I--not for residential).

My customer wants to install:
1. Low voltage door jam switches
2. Low voltage rope lighting
3. Low voltage recess cans

I'm not a fan of low voltage--when it comes to lighting! Seeing that mosy are looking to conserve energy, i guess i better start becoming a fan. :(
 
resistance said:
Does any one have any recommendations (manufactures) on low voltage lighting (recess cans and under cab) kits. 1. Load= 800 watts 2. load 600 watts. 3. Load below 200 watts

Also looking for recommendations on Low voltage door jam switches (i've tried three of my suppliers, and they've never heard of them, nor have I--not for residential).

My customer wants to install:
1. Low voltage door jam switches
2. Low voltage rope lighting
3. Low voltage recess cans

I'm not a fan of low voltage--when it comes to lighting! Seeing that mosy are looking to conserve energy, i guess i better start becoming a fan. :(
Click to expand...

They are not saving anything,it's your job to show them how wattage is calculated.As for door jams simply let the 120 volt ones control the transformer of the low voltage lights.Low voltage rope i have never heard of and likely its not produced,at best it would cost more.I X E = WATTS
 
I am very happy with any of the following: Halo, Juno and Capri. I have used them all and they are just fine.

Rope lighting I usually buy online at www.contractorschoicelighting.com
Here is the rope lighting link http://www.ccl-light.com/docs/indoor/rope/index.html
2wire.jpg

low voltage jam switch can be a regular 120 volt door switch
 
Jim W in Tampa said:
They are not saving anything,it's your job to show them how wattage is calculated.As for door jams simply let the 120 volt ones control the transformer of the low voltage lights.Low voltage rope i have never heard of and likely its not produced,at best it would cost more.I X E = WATTS
Click to expand...

Low voltage rope is produced but they'd be better using the 120 volt. See the link in above post for low volt rope.
 
I use the Seagull Ambiance low voltage lighting exclusively for under cabinet lighting. Been using it for at least 6 or 7 years and have never had anyone unhappy with it.

For low voltage recessed I use Juno. IC44 or TC44 cans with built in transformer. If you are looking for the tiny low voltage recessed with remote transformer, I haven't used them much. But Seagull does have them.

And I've always used 120V rope lighting.
 
I use these http://www.waclighting.com/USA/ or you can use http://www.nslusa.com/xenontask.html both are excellent, I perfer the NSL XEON task lights myself... they have a high/low switch built into the fixture...

As for jamb switches, I install fluorescent lights with a Remcon Relay... You can install this relay anywhere, but I install it right in the fixture myself...
r-115st.jpg


Then I install magnets in the door to turn the light on and off... IMO best way to do a door switch....
RMS942BROWN.jpg
 
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stickboy1375 said:
As for jamb switches, I install fluorescent lights with a Remcon Relay... You can install this relay anywhere, but I install it right in the fixture myself...
Then I install magnets in the door to turn the light on and off... IMO best way to do a door switch....
Click to expand...
Hey sticky-- do you run 14/2 to the magnet switch and how close do they have to be to operate effectively. Door expand and contract and I am wondering how that affects them.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
Hey sticky-- do you run 14/2 to the magnet switch and how close do they have to be to operate effectively. Door expand and contract and I am wondering how that affects them.
Click to expand...

I use 18-2 for the magnets, the relay I install is a transformer and a relay all in one deal, I drill a 3/8 hole in the door and the jamb, the magnets are strong so they can be off center quite a bit, plus you can always install the magnet on top or side of the door... its the best thing going, easy install every time... I used to use a ice cube relay and a transformer when I first thought of it, but now I buy the Remcon relay, I used to install these...

clip_image007.jpg
 
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george t. everett said:
Stickboy,
I use Edwards #44 switches. Only need to drill 1 hole & works great. costs about $8. The less holes I have to drill in a high price door the better.
Click to expand...

are the edwards surface mounted? or is that a ball switch?

never mind I googled them...
 
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Stick, That is a great way to go. The reed approximity switch has been used successfully since the old days of hardwired burglar alarms systems. The description you gave is very reliable compared to the mechanical plunger type door switch. I remember that the magnets were powerful enough to work with gaps as much as at least a 1/4 inch.

In cases where the door dropped down or settled, the techs would pull the magnet up as an easy adjustment. I am not sure if the old 18 awg bell two-wire Cl II is still used direct in residential walls, but we used an RR7 to switch the BC leg for lighting. I guess with X10 wireless now, the reed relay wouldn't even need a direct hookup to control a lighting circuit. A cool option?
 
gndrod said:
I am not sure if the old 18 awg bell two-wire Cl II is still used direct in residential walls, but we used an RR7 to switch the BC leg for lighting. I guess with X10 wireless now, the reed relay wouldn't even need a direct hookup to control a lighting circuit. A cool option?
Click to expand...
sure 18/2 can be pulled in residential walls it just cannot enter the light fixture if you put the relay in the light fixture.
 
You dont need to enter the fixture with the 18-2, look closely at the picture of the relay, the LV part is actually a threaded nipple, so the LV would be outside the box...smart eh?:smile: I think the magnets work up to 1/2 an inch myself.. but probably depends on what brand you buy...
 
Outstanding idea! I will look into your suggestions Sticky!

We normally use the bulky door jamb switches, but they are a pain for the installers!
Thanks for the input from all!

PS: I did the calculation for the customer initially, but they wouldn't sing.
So I song: "They are stuck on Low voltage like a band-aid stuck on me!" :)
 
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