Madison Elec. Smart Box

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and!ru

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Electrician
Has anyone used the MSB22+ smart boxes? I was thinking about purchasing them, but noticed on the cut sheet that each clamp has either a #14 or #12 label. I'm not sure why they would design them like this. Is it okay to have a 12-2 wire in the #14 clamp?
 

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Has anyone used the MSB22+ smart boxes? I was thinking about purchasing them, but noticed on the cut sheet that each clamp has either a #14 or #12 label. I'm not sure why they would design them like this. Is it okay to have a 12-2 wire in the #14 clamp?
I dont care for those boxes. The clamps are difficult to use, particularly the inset ones and those insets robs you of box volume. The Allied SB-1 slider box is a much better box IMO.

Regarding the specific question, I would say that putting a #12 in the #14 clamp would violate the manufacturers instructions and thus be a 110.3 NEC violation.
 
I dont care for those boxes. The clamps are difficult to use, particularly the inset ones and those insets robs you of box volume. The Allied SB-1 slider box is a much better box IMO.

Regarding the specific question, I would say that putting a #12 in the #14 clamp would violate the manufacturers instructions and thus be a 110.3 NEC violation.
It already has 22.5 cubic inches which is big for retrofit/old work boxes. that inset makes it easier to get the box into existing finished wall, especially if you have cables entering top and bottom at same time.

I have never noticed the clamps being marked specifically for 14 or 12. Guessing the inset one mabye the one marked for 14? Is a little bit of a PIA to install 12 into those. Will have to check that out. I should have some those in the shop.
 
I'm not sure why they would design them like this. Is it okay to have a 12-2 wire in the #14 clamp?
I'm gonna say no, and I'm guessing bending radius is why.

I'm now also wondering about putting a 14-2 in a 12-s slot. :unsure:
 
I dont care for those boxes. The clamps are difficult to use, particularly the inset ones and those insets robs you of box volume. The Allied SB-1 slider box is a much better box IMO.

Regarding the specific question, I would say that putting a #12 in the #14 clamp would violate the manufacturers instructions and thus be a 110.3 NEC violation.
That looks like a great product. I must admit I have practically zero experience in residential work and have done largely new commercial builds. I know when fishing cables it’s acceptable to have it unsupported, but I’m assuming you still need to have the cable secured to the box. With the allied SB-1 slider box it looks like there are no clamps? With doing “old work” doesn’t it need a clamp?
 
I use the Arlington version of this box; instead of cable clamps, it has 1/2-3/4 KO’s and comes with a 1/2 NM connector in the box.


They are especially useful when you need to retrofit a larger box in place of an existing box for installation of USB receps or other various smart devices. I’ve used these boxes exclusively in my own house.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I use the Arlington version of this box; instead of cable clamps, it has 1/2-3/4 KO’s and comes with a 1/2 NM connector in the box.


They are especially useful when you need to retrofit a larger box in place of an existing box for installation of USB receps or other various smart devices. I’ve used these boxes exclusively in my own house.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Can one clamp support two cables?
 
I use the Arlington version of this box; instead of cable clamps, it has 1/2-3/4 KO’s and comes with a 1/2 NM connector in the box.


They are especially useful when you need to retrofit a larger box in place of an existing box for installation of USB receps or other various smart devices. I’ve used these boxes exclusively in my own house.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah I like those too. The nice thing about the slider box is you can fine tune the depth of the box. With others you have to initially have it stick out a bit because the screws will suck it in as they are tightened. Not a huge deal, just kinda an anal thing if you are a perfectionist :)
 
As long as you're against a wood stud or the closed side of a steel stud.

To me, the regular old-work box works just fine anywhere.

View attachment 2558850
When I do house rewires, I try whenever possible to use the side screw boxes mounted to studs. It takes a bit more time but is a much better job overall than relying on lath or drywall to hold the box. I admit I am quite particular with my old work, I try to do nothing less than the highest quality job.
 
Has anyone used the MSB22+ smart boxes? I was thinking about purchasing them, but noticed on the cut sheet that each clamp has either a #14 or #12 label. I'm not sure why they would design them like this. Is it okay to have a 12-2 wire in the #14 clamp?
I've used them and like them especially for when the sheetrock or finish carpenter don't know what the final wall treatment is going to be. Easy to get the box back flush after finishing.
The box has 2- 12/2 clamp slots and 2- 14/2 clamp slots, that I believe is why the reference to #14 or #12 wire.
 
Easy to get the box back flush after finishing.

If fire code requires supplemental fire pads to cover plastic boxes, regardless of their 2hr fire ratings, how are these more economical than metallic boxes?

Never met an EC that can pass fire code inspection the first time, when walls are shared with garages, or between shared walls of a multi unit building.

Required fire pads are either not properly listed, improperly installed, and most EC's always fail this fire inspection the first time.

Since EC's are not experts with fire code, when the right inspector catches this screwup, it always crashes their production schedule, and they have to eat it with no chance of change order relief.
 
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