MC connector

And I know of no NM connectors listed for use with MC.
 
roger said:
And I know of no NM connectors listed for use with MC.
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They have them.
d192fc13049657e0010317260c634964.jpg



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roger said:
Regardless, looks like a cheap way to do things to me.
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I agree for MC cable those things are junk also MC-ap requires a connector specifically listed for that type of MC cable. We never used anything but a saddle type connector.
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There is no picture where MC cable conductors exit this what appears to be a type NM ( romex ) connector . If it had a full opening there is nothing stopping anti short bushing from falling out ( even armored cable types that anti short bushings are not required always install them ). A few years ago we had a case of garbage made in India 1/2" die cast duplex MC connectors that did not have a listening on what sizes of MC cable they were listed for. We were using them for 10/2 MC cable.
 
garbo said:
There is no picture where MC cable conductors exit this what appears to be a type NM ( romex ) connector . If it had a full opening there is nothing stopping anti short bushing from falling out ( even armored cable types that anti short bushings are not required always install them ). A few years ago we had a case of garbage made in India 1/2" die cast duplex MC connectors that did not have a listening on what sizes of MC cable they were listed for. We were using them for 10/2 MC cable.
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Anti-short bushings are not required for MC cable per the NEC. I still use them (or I prefer a couple wraps of black tape) because it is a better installation.
 
I thought the ones with a “squarish” opening were dual rated, the opening was big enough for a 14/2 or 12/2 romex to pass through but small enough to catch and hold MC jacket. The completely open throat are for romex and the small circular throat where for MC. Like This
 
jaggedben said:
What the heck? How does that work?
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I would never trust the online description from Home Depot. I would need to see either online or box label from manufacturer.
(Home Depot just got a multimillion dollar fire for continuing to sell online DIY kits of a refrigerant that has been banned for two years. They were notified by the government twice, promising to remove it both times.)
 
GoldDigger said:
I would never trust the online description from Home Depot. I would need to see either online or box label from manufacturer.
(Home Depot just got a multimillion dollar fire for continuing to sell online DIY kits of a refrigerant that has been banned for two years. They were notified by the government twice, promising to remove it both times.)
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I agree and I did look it up on the Halex website, that is what I meant in post number 7 about looking at the specs. It says they are listed for everything the HD add says. The container they are sold in also said they are UL listed, go figure
 
Rick 0920 said:
Anti-short bushings are not required for MC cable per the NEC. I still use them (or I prefer a couple wraps of black tape) because it is a better installation.
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Several times the bag of anti short bushings supplied with the roll of type AC ,HCF or MC cable were short so would use two of them 180 degrees apart. Can remember back in the 1960's when anti shorts were made from a coated paper and after a few years in damp areas break in halve or fall apart. Was taught to always cut the armored end at a 45 degrees angle to reduce the chance of edge nicking insulation. Mentioned to an electrical contractor that their cutting #10 bare aluminum ground wire from HCF cable and leaving a 3" stub with a sharp 45 degree cut could nick wires. Thought they should have had a small wire nut screwed into sharp ends or several wraps of quality black tape.
 
garbo said:
Several times the bag of anti short bushings supplied with the roll of type AC ,HCF or MC cable were short so would use two of them 180 degrees apart. Can remember back in the 1960's when anti shorts were made from a coated paper and after a few years in damp areas break in halve or fall apart. Was taught to always cut the armored end at a 45 degrees angle to reduce the chance of edge nicking insulation. Mentioned to an electrical contractor that their cutting #10 bare aluminum ground wire from HCF cable and leaving a 3" stub with a sharp 45 degree cut could nick wires. Thought they should have had a small wire nut screwed into sharp ends or several wraps of quality black tape.
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That's why I prefer to use these types of MC connectors. They screw in inside of the interlocking metal. The conductors will never be exposed to the sharp edges of the metal. They are also better to use when cutting in a metal box and using Madison straps because they are so low profile you can install the connector and locknut before having the box inside the wall. Those of you that have ever had to get a locknut started on a deep cut in box know exactly what I'm talking about.
 

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Rick 0920 said:
That's why I prefer to use these types of MC connectors. They screw in inside of the interlocking metal. The conductors will never be exposed to the sharp edges of the metal. They are also better to use when cutting in a metal box and using Madison straps because they are so low profile you can install the connector and locknut before having the box inside the wall. Those of you that have ever had to get a locknut started on a deep cut in box know exactly what I'm talking about.
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I've never seen one of those type listed for MC cable. I have seen them for FMC. Do you have a link for one that can be used with MC?
 
infinity said:
I've never seen one of those type listed for MC cable. I have seen them for FMC. Do you have a link for one that can be used with MC?
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Several companies manufacture them. Two that come to mind are Bridgeport and Halex. The part #'s that I have for Bridgeport are
# 118378 and 519-DC2. The last # may be a Graybar #.
 
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