Metal studs

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guschash

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When mounting a panel in metal studs, do you have to frame it plywood. I why you would have to but the job I on commercial job they framed all panels with plywood. I need to add another panel and don’t see the purpose in it. I don’t do commercial that much.
 
guschash said:
When mounting a panel in metal studs, do you have to frame it plywood. I why you would have to but the job I on commercial job they framed all panels with plywood. I need to add another panel and don’t see the purpose in it. I don’t do commercial that much.
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I don't see any purpose for it. Who knows why the original installer did it. Maybe the only fasteners they had on the truck were wood screws.

I would not be inclined to follow existing in this case. I like to match existing where I can, but I refuse to be "stuck on stupid" or copy an otherwise obtuse design.
 
jeremysterling said:
I don't see any purpose for it. Who knows why the original installer did it. Maybe the only fasteners they had on the truck were wood screws.

I would not be inclined to follow existing in this case. I like to match existing where I can, but I refuse to be "stuck on stupid" or copy an otherwise obtuse design.
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i do not see a code reason for it,

i see it in the specifications all the time on commercial jobs,

and i do see the purpose for the hard backing when mounting a panel and securing the conduit or uni-strut above the panel, mounting for time clocks, secondary panels, or disconnects, phone equipment and other things.
 
guschash said:
When mounting a panel in metal studs, do you have to frame it plywood. I why you would have to but the job I on commercial job they framed all panels with plywood. I need to add another panel and don’t see the purpose in it. I don’t do commercial that much.
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You said "in metal studs" so I'm assuming that the panel is recessed mounted into the wall. We always bolt them right to the studs.
 
I'd venture that most people I've known don't particularly trust metal studs and how easy they twist before substrate is applied so they used plywood to add rigidity.

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KnightPower said:
I'd venture that most people I've known don't particularly trust metal studs and how easy they twist before substrate is applied so they used plywood to add rigidity.

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seems a metal cabinet fastened to a stud on each side of it would give them a lot of rigidity when compared to a one gang device box just fastened to the side of one stud.
 
Once you add a layer of 5/8" wallboard all around the studs are very rigid. It's a better installation than just toggle bolting the panel to the drywall.
 
I agree with both following posts.. But as I stated when use to dimensional lumber; 18 ga metal studs do seem flimsy in comparison. So use of plyboard, blocking or through bolting gives most comfort.

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I went to Home Depot and got two plates 24x24 16 g and fasten the them behind the panel . I screwed them to the studs. It’s pretty solid now. Thanks for replies.
 
What gauge steel? If its 25 then I would ask framers to put the open end of stud towards each other and then just screw a piece of lathe behind in the stud so that the screws for panel have something to lock into. Sheetrock does not keep screws from pulling out. If it's heavy steel like 22 or 20 gauge, then just screw into that.
 
ronalddunbar@comcast.net said:
We always install a piece of the bottom track to the studs on both sides of the panel. Give a nice flat sides and also strengthens the panel.


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that sometimes leaves bump in the sheetrock due to zips and bigger track size. with 25ga i do notice sometimes a screw will thread into track but then push the stud edge instead of screwing in. usually depends on type of screws being used, etc.
 
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